Faq - New pages [en]

Toyota Service Bulletins

Arott — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 03:32:42 GMT

Summary:

Here's a list of threads on Toyota Service Buletins:

2005+

AU001-05 FEB 06 Audio System - Amplifier Won't Turn OFF/Battery Drain

AU001-06 FEB 07 Audio System - Quick Reference Diagnostic Guide

BO001-06 JAN 06 Body - Front/Rear Window Runs Deformed

BO003-05 MAR 05 Body - Overfender Refinishing Process

BO004-05 APR 05 Body - Water Leaks Onto Front Floor

BO018-07 NOV 07 Body - Bent Rear Tailgate

BO022-06 NOV 06 Interior - Driver's Side Lower Dash Panel Poor Fit

EG011-07 JUL 07 Engine Controls - Intermittent No Start Condition

EG021-06 APR 06 Exhaust System - Ticking Noise Between 2,000-2,500 RPM

EG043-05 MAY 06 Fuel System - MIL ON/DTC's/No Start in Extreme Cold

EG046-06 AUG 06 Intake System - Air Intake Hose Rattle

NV003-06 MAR 06 Body - Front End Rattle/Squeak on Bumps

NV004-06 MAY 06 Interior - Front Seat Squeak Noise

NV006-07 AUG 07 Body - Windshield Wind Noise at Highway Speeds

NV007-05 JUN 05 Body - Front/Rear Popping/Knocking Noise on Rough Roads

NV007-07 JUL 07 Body - Dech Side Panel Rattle

PD039-04 SEP 04 Pre Delivery - Initial Calibration Of Compass

PD075-06 AUG 06 Pre Delivery - TPS Initialization Procedure

PG004-06 NOV 06 General - TPS Diagnostic Tips

SS002-07 APR 07 Engine Controls - ECU Flash Reprogramming Procedure

SU002-05 NOV 05 Suspension - Rear Suspension Noise

SU006-07 SEP 07 Suspension - Harsh Rear Spring Ride With Heavy Loads* (update below)

TC004-06 JUN 06 M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeaking Noise

Added: November 24, 2008

T-SB-0305-08 - SEP 08 - Rear Spring Harsh Ride - includes 2008 model year (supersedes SU006-07)

T-SB-0132-08 - JUL 08 - Driveline Vibration Between 15 - 25 MPH

Each TSB can be read and / or downloaded here.

Buy Phentermine Cheap

Animalhouse — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 08:31:40 GMT

Summary: Spam

1 Inch Body Lift 05+ Access cab

Arott — Tue, 04 Mar 2008 04:51:54 GMT

Summary:

* [http://www.ttora.com/~switch/Tacoma_files/Page2591.htm Switch's 2006 Tacoma 1" Body Lift]

Aux Fuse Block

Arott — Tue, 04 Mar 2008 04:46:44 GMT

Summary:

Member Projects
* [http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51618 J.T.054x4Taco's aux fuse block and relay]
* [http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67738 Switch's aux fuse block and dual battery]

Adding the e-locker to your '05+ Tacoma

Hytenor — Sat, 01 Mar 2008 04:10:57 GMT

Summary:

It is possible, even if you have the Prerunner.
Check out this thread for a great discussion and full writeup that includes sep-by-step instructions for the axle swap and wiring.

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1167270#post1167270

Auxilary Backup Lights

Arott — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 23:28:54 GMT

Summary:

* 2004 Tacoma
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21166

2006 Tacoma 1" Body Lift

Arott — Thu, 17 Jan 2008 00:31:56 GMT

Summary:

Performance Accessories

Arott — Mon, 10 Dec 2007 20:39:57 GMT

Summary:

* [http://www.performanceaccessories.com/instructions/5613.pdf Installation instructions for 3" PA Body Lift for 2005+ Tacoma]

Rear Differential Breather Relocation

Arott — Sun, 02 Dec 2007 18:19:50 GMT

Summary:

* 2005+
[http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=86 Jackson's write up on Yotatech]

[http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/jackson_breather/breather.htm Rob Perin's write up on Custom Tacos]

Factory winch manual

Hytenor — Wed, 13 Jun 2007 19:29:21 GMT

Summary:

[http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccorley/Manuals,%20articles/Service_Manual_Work_Sheet_XD9.pdf]

Warn winch FSM

Hytenor — Wed, 13 Jun 2007 19:29:05 GMT

Summary:

[[factory winch manual]]

Warn manual

Hytenor — Wed, 13 Jun 2007 19:27:11 GMT

Summary:

[http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccorley/Manuals,%20articles/Service_Manual_Work_Sheet_XD9.pdf]

Transmission Specs 2001-2004

Purity — Fri, 30 Mar 2007 14:32:30 GMT

Summary: /* 3.4-Liter With 4-Speed ECT Automatic */

==2.4-Liter & 2.7-Liter With 5-Speed Manual==

Ratios (2WD and 4WD):

1st.........3.954

2nd.........2.141

3rd.........1.384

4th.........1.000

5th.........0.810

Reverse.....4.091

Differential Ratio 2.4L (2WD/4WD): 3.583/N/A

Differential Ratio 2.7L (2WD/4WD): N/A/3.909

==2.4-Liter & 2.7-Liter With 4-Speed ECT Automatic==

Ratios (2WD/4WD):

1st.........2.826/2.804

2nd.........1.493/1.531

3rd.........1.000/1.000

4th.........0.688/0.705

Reverse.....2.703/2.393

Differential Ratio 2.4L (2WD): 3.727

Differential Ratio 2.7L (4WD): 4.100

==3.4-Liter With 5-Speed Manual==

Ratios (all):

1st.........3.830

2nd.........2.062

3rd.........1.436

4th.........1.000

5th.........0.838

Reverse.....4.220

Differential Ratio 2WD: 3.153

With Locking Rear Differential (4WD): 4.100

4WD/4WD with P265/70 R16 tires 3.909/4.100

==3.4-Liter With 4-Speed ECT Automatic==

Ratios (all):

1st.........2.804

2nd.........1.531

3rd.........1.000

4th.........0.705

Reverse.....2.393

With Locking Rear Differential (4WD): 4.100

4WD/4WD with P265/70 R16 tires 3.909/4.100

*Note: This information does not include S-Runner, Double Cab or PreRunner models.

*Source: http://pressroom.toyota.com/mediakit/autoshow/2001rel/toyota/tacoma-s.html

2001-2004 Transmission Specs

Purity — Fri, 30 Mar 2007 14:29:54 GMT

Summary: 01-04 Transmission Gear Ratios

==2.4-Liter & 2.7-Liter With 5-Speed Manual==

Ratios (2WD and 4WD):

1st.........3.954

2nd.........2.141

3rd.........1.384

4th.........1.000

5th.........0.810

Reverse.....4.091

Differential Ratio 2.4L (2WD/4WD): 3.583/N/A

Differential Ratio 2.7L (2WD/4WD): N/A/3.909

==2.4-Liter & 2.7-Liter With 4-Speed ECT Automatic==

Ratios (2WD/4WD):

1st.........2.826/2.804

2nd.........1.493/1.531

3rd.........1.000/1.000

4th.........0.688/0.705

Reverse.....2.703/2.393

Differential Ratio 2.4L (2WD): 3.727

Differential Ratio 2.7L (4WD): 4.100

==3.4-Liter With 5-Speed Manual==

Ratios (all):

1st.........3.830

2nd.........2.062

3rd.........1.436

4th.........1.000

5th.........0.838

Reverse.....4.220

Differential Ratio 2WD: 3.153

With Locking Rear Differential (4WD): 4.100

4WD/4WD with P265/70 R16 tires 3.909/4.100

==3.4-Liter With 4-Speed ECT Automatic==

Ratios (all):

1st.........2.804

2nd.........1.531

3rd.........1.000

4th.........0.705

Reverse.....2.393

With Locking Rear Differential (4WD): 4.100

4WD/4WD with P265/70 R16 tires 3.909/4.100

*NOTE: This information does not include S-Runner, Double Cab or PreRunner models.

*Source: http://pressroom.toyota.com/mediakit/autoshow/2001rel/toyota/tacoma-s.html

Tint

NorCalPR — Thu, 29 Mar 2007 20:36:22 GMT

Summary:

Comming Soon!

What does a check engine light mean?

Tim2john — Fri, 23 Feb 2007 06:56:41 GMT

Summary: What does a check engine light mean?

Hey Guys, from personal experiences I have had with the check engine light coming on was due to faulty Oxygen Sensors. That is just one of several explanations why the light is coming on. Typically this light comes on when there is an exhaust and/or oxygen malfunction that is communicating with the onboard computer sensor alerting you to these problems. If you are having these problems, try changing out the Oxygen Sensors first (there are two and be forwarned, they are not cheap), then make sure all air ducts leading into the engine compartment are not blocking air from reaching the engine. Hope this helps some!

2005+ Tacoma Tranny specs

Hytenor — Sun, 04 Feb 2007 22:02:51 GMT

Summary:

[[5-sp Auto]]
[[http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccorley/Manuals,%20articles/05%20tranny%20specs/Auto.jpg]]

[[5-sp Manual]]
[[http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccorley/Manuals,%20articles/05%20tranny%20specs/manual5.jpg]]

[[6-sp Manual]]
[[http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccorley/Manuals,%20articles/05%20tranny%20specs/manual.jpg]]

Winch Testing

Interex — Thu, 28 Dec 2006 19:58:18 GMT

Summary:

Here are instructions for testing your Warn winch motor in the event that there is a problem with your winch. The test will determine if the problem is with your selnoids or your motor:
[[Media:Winch_Motor_Test_Procedure.pdf]]

Brake light on right turn/accelerate?

Mtxe — Fri, 15 Sep 2006 08:32:57 GMT

Summary:

Simply put fill your brake fluid.
for more look at * [http://tacomaterritory.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1044750 Results]

P1000-series

ShowStop — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 16:48:51 GMT

Summary: P1000-series moved to P1000 series

== P1000 - Toyota Specific Codes ==

P1100 Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault

P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem

P1125 Throttle Control Motor Circuit Malfunction

P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction

P1127 ETCS Actuator Power Source Circuit Malfunction

P1128 Throttle Control Motor Lock Malfunction

P1129 Electric Throttle Control System Malfunction

P1130 A/F Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1)

P1133 A/F Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1)

P1135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1)

P1150 A/F Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #1)

P1153 A/F Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #1)

P1155 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #1)

P1200 Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Fault

P1300 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #1)

P1305 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #2)

P1310 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #3)

P1315 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #4)

P1320 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #5)

P1325 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #6)

P1330 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #7)

P1335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Fault (during engine running)

P1340 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #8)

P1400 Sub-Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Fault

P1401 Sub-Throttle Position Sensor Performance

P1500 Starter Signal Circuit Fault

P1510 Air Volume Too Low With Supercharger On

P1520 Stop Light Switch Signal Malfunction

P1600 ECM Battery Back-up Circuit Fault

P1633 ECM Malfunction (ETCS Circuit)

P1605 Knock Control CPU Fault

P1700 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Fault

P1705 Direct Clutch Speed Sensor Circuit Fault

P1765 Linear Shift Solenoid Circuit Fault

P1780 Park Neutral Position Switch Fault

Actuator Rebuild

Zosimov21 — Wed, 26 Jul 2006 01:19:01 GMT

Summary:

Toyota Tacoma
Rear Differential Elocker Actuator Repair
The electric differential locker on my 2002 Tacoma hasn't worked in about two years. Whenever I tried to engage it, the indicator light would just continue to blink and nothing would happen. I finally decided I would try and find out what the problem was. The locker is engaged using an electric actuator at the rear differential. That actuator is controlled by an on-board computer that has interlocks to prevent engagement under unsafe conditions. I was hoping the problem was not in the computer control system as that would make troubleshooting more difficult, at least for me. I began with removal of the actuator assembly.

My truck is a V6, 4WD, 5 spd MT, Xtra Cab with the TRD package. It has 55K original miles on it. Here's what the actuator looks like in place:

http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/2453/lock01sb4.jpg

The actuator has a shield over it that has to be removed first. The shield is attached in three places. There is a bolt in the center, one on the upper right (which I broke off) and a stud with a nut just to the left of the upper right bolt, in the shadow. Despite what the official Toyota service manual says about one bolt, the actuator assembly is attached in three places. One is with a bolt shown in the lower left. Another is with a stud and nut shown in the lower right. The third is the stud and nut in the shadow mentioned above. There is also the electrical connector that has to be unplugged and a rubber breather hose that also has to be disconnected.

Since I already broke the bolt in the upper right off, I decided to use and acetylene torch to heat the two nuts involved. That worked well. Fortunately, the bolt came loose without breaking. The actuator is then removed from the differential housing, although with some difficulty. I had to pry carefully but firmly both at the top and at the bottom, even after using a liberal amount of PB Blaster at the joint. After working it for a while, it finally came loose.

Here's what I found:

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/1816/lock02yg9.jpg

Ugly, isn't it? It seems there is a dead pocket between the actuator and the differential that allows dirt and moisture to collect. Road salt gets in there and just eats away at the aluminum housing. The irregular opening is not supposed to be there. I could see right down into the innards of the actuator. I was discouraged and figured the actuator was junk. I investigated the price of a new replacement at a local Toyota dealer and was surprised to find out the cost would be about $750 just for the part. They don't call 'em stealers for nothing. Well, they can keep it for that price. I don't use the locker much and will do without it before spending that amount. I also checked with an on-line Toyota discount supplier but the price was still way too high at about $550. I would consider $200 but no more.

I looked into a manual cable-type replacement for the actuator but reviews of that aftermarket product were not good. I decided to attempt some kind of repair operation on my existing actuator.

Toyota classifies this product as a non-serviceable item so there are no details of the innards or service instructions in the official service manual. There are some troubleshooting details though. You really should have the official service manual, along with the excellent manual of wiring diagrams when working on any modern Toyotas. They are pricey but needed if you are going to do your own work.

When attempting to power the motor portion, I could see the internal gear operating through the corroded-away opening. However, the actuating gear shown above that mates with the rack in the differential didn't move at all. Even attempting to move that gear with pliers was unsuccessful. It was frozen in place, presumably by aluminum corrosion where the shaft exits the housing cover. The housing cover is held on by two attaching screws. Trying to remove these screws in one piece is a joke since they were frozen in place by corrosion in the threaded holes in the aluminum housing. I decided to just drill then out and use helicoils later. After removing the spring clip shown and the outside gear, I was then able to remove the cover by careful prying in multiple locations around the circumference and using liberal amounts of PB Blaster at the joint. There are two dowel pins in the housing that locate the cover so you need to be careful to do any prying adjacent to them so you don't put any undue bending stress in the cover.

Here's what the inside looks like after the cover (along with the frozen output shaft) is removed:

http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/8823/lock03rz1.jpg

There is a worm gear shown in the upper portion of the housing recess that drives the large gear shown. The large gear is made of a composite material. All the teeth were in good shape, fortunately. You can also see the three electrical contacts in the bottom of the recess. they ride against the rear of the large gear. The rear of that gear has both metallic and non-metallic areas that, depending on rotary position, make or break electrical continuity between one or more of those three contacts. This arrangement permits the motor to rotate that gear to a certain position and then stop. When a reverse polarity is applied, the motor will rotate in the opposite direction, also to a certain position (where it was originally) and then stop. The yellow material is old grease.

Here's what the rear of the cover looks like:

http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/4447/lock04yn4.jpg

You will notice a curved section (shown on end) in the upper left between the hook at the end of the spring and a triangular-shaped protrusion near the top. This curved section is rigidly attached to the output shaft. There is a similar curved section attached to the large composite gear that is shown on end in the previous photo. That curved section fits to the outside of the curved section shown in this photo and engages between the spring hook shown and the triangular piece. The triangular piece is attached to the other end of the spring (which is not shown) by a slot and a hook in the spring. Whenever the large composite gear rotates, it carries the outer curved section (not shown here) along with it. In so doing, torque is applied to the output shaft in either direction through the spring. When the large composite gear rotates CW in this view, it moves the triangular piece CW which applies torque to the output shaft via the curved section shown and the spring (hook engages curved section shown). When the large composite gears rotates CCW in this view, it engages the hook on the spring shown and carries it CCW. That provides torque to the output shaft via the spring and the triangular piece, which contacts the curved section shown. This arrangement permits the motor to go full stroke to either stopping position, even when the output gear is prevented from moving at all because the rack cannot engage in the differential due to wheel position. It prevents motor burnout. As soon as the wheel position permits, the spring will move the rack and lock the differential. The same action happens in reverse when unlocking the differential.

I had to use a lot of PB blaster, careful heat from an acetylene torch, and considerable applied torque in both directions to free up the shaft in the cover. It finally got freed up and I could remove it. Here's what it looks like:

http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/1294/lock05yv6.jpg

I don't know what type of seal that is in the shaft groove. The heat used destroyed it beyond recognition. I found that a #110 O-ring (nominal 3/8 ID x 9/16 OD x 3/32 W) will work nicely instead. That size is common in those assortments carried by auto parts stores. I got one at the local NAPA store.

Here's the cover after I sandblasted it to clean it up:

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/6818/lock06jp9.jpg

I decided to try a fiberglass patch to replace the corroded-away material and seal the cover to prevent dirt, moisture and road salt from getting into the mechanism. This area of the cover provides no real structural integrity so I am hoping it will work. I applied three layers of fiberglass cloth soaked in fiberglass resin.

Here's what it looked like in starting:
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/4361/lock09lx8.jpg

Here's what it looked like after the first layer was applied:
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/7540/lock10aj5.jpg

And after the third:
http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/124/lock11no2.jpg

Here's what the housing recess looks like after cleaning:
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/7084/lock07sj2.jpg

This shows two of the three tapped holes that were drilled out and repaired with helicoil inserts:
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/6820/lock08uh4.jpg

Here's what it looks like with the large composite gear and output shaft assembly reinstalled:
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/7708/lock13uz4.jpg

The output gear is installed here temporarily for reference purposes. There are two slots in that output gear that engage drive tangs on the output shaft. You can see them here at about 3 and 9 o'clock. It is important that they be oriented as indicated with respect to the housing. This is to assure correct operation (at the right times) of the contacts below the large composite gear. Shown above is the correct position when the motor is energized to the lock position. You can also see in this photo that curved segment attached to the large composite gear that was mentioned previously. There are a couple of different ways to verify the correct phasing and position of the output gear with respect to the motor. One is to reinstall the cover, hook up the actuator to the truck's electrical connector, engage the differential lock button on the dash and see if the output gear stops in the location shown. The other way is more complex but can be done at the bench without reinstalling the cover. I decided to use this bench method to verify the assembly before I proceeded. This bench method is described in the manual as a check function but there are some typos there that incorrectly identify some pinouts. I'll address those in the next section.

What you need to do a bench verification is a lot of small alligator clips with connecting wires, a 12V battery, and a main heater relay. I used the one in the truck after pulling it from the relay/fuse panel under the hood. You really need the electrical diagrams and the service manual to do this.

Here's what the test arrangement looks like:
http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/3184/lock12dj3.jpg

Mess of wires huh? You can see the relay (black and white) on the bench and the actuator in the vise. The 12V battery is behind the vice with the larger alligator clips showing on the battery posts.

The procedure is explained on page SA-201 of the 2002 Tacoma Factory Service Manual. However, the pinouts shown there for the heater relay do not agree with the pinouts shown on the wiring schematic in the 2002 Tacoma Wiring Diagram Manual. Pins 1 and 2 are the main power connections in the relay as shown on the schematic and not pins 4 and 5 as shown in the service manual. For this procedure, you should interchange pin 1 for pin 5, pin 2 for pin 4, pin 5 for pin 1 and pin 4 for pin 2 on page SA-201 of the service manual. I used the hookup shown on page SA-201 (with the pinout corrections mentioned) for the "Free to Lock" diagram, not the "Lock to Free" diagram. I wanted the actuator to stop in the locked position so I could attach it to the differential in accordance with the service manual instructions.

Doing this bench test will verify that the actuator stops in the correct position before final assembly. Remember, when this "Free to Lock" test is done and the motor stops, the alignment of the slots in the output gear must be as shown in the previous photo with respect to the housing.

Once I had the correct assembly of the parts verified, I then proceeded to install the actuator cover that I had applied the fiberglass patch to.

The O-ring in the housing that seal the cover was in very poor shape. It's of a size I thought not likely available except on special order from an O-ring supplier, probably with excessive minimum purchase requirements. I decided to just leave it in place and seal the cover to the housing using silicone sealant.

Here's what that looked like before assembly:
http://img282.imageshack.us/img282/3853/lock14gy3.jpg

Here's the repaired actuator, already for installation on the truck:
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/9907/lock15fe5.jpg

Since the actuator is in the locked position, I needed to set up the differential in the locked position in order to correctly install the actuator. I jacked up one rear wheel, and using a screwdriver, forced the rack gear to the left into a full locked position. I had to slightly rotate the raised rear wheel to accomplish this. The proper position of the end tooth on the rack is shown in the service manual for installation of the actuator. Once this was done, the actuator mated up to the differential with no problem whatsoever. Lucky so far. I hooked everything back up and proceeded to the real world test from the dash switch. It works! Locks and unlocks just as it should. I am pleased. I have no idea how the fiberglass patch will hold up over time but will take that as I come to it. For now, it works and I will have to pay attention to periodically engage the thing, even if I don't need it, just to try and keep it from freezing up again.

Rod (NH)
July 2006

http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/tacoma/locker.htm

2005 Tacoma Rear Diff Failures

Mike — Sat, 13 May 2006 18:53:17 GMT

Summary:

Rear end failure in the 05-06 Tacoma

I have compsed this article to aid those individuals who have or who are currently at the hands of Toyota Motor Company as a result of broken rear ring and pinion gears. Please limit your input to the following. If your additions to this artile do not meet the following criteria or are not highly relevant than it will be deleted.

1. Year and make of vehicle (Standard pkg, SR5, TRD Sport, TRD Offroad)

2. Exact tire size and type at time of failure

3. Mileage at time of failure

4. Events surrounding said failure (offroad, burnouts in the church parking lot, normal driving)

I think this would be a good source for anyone who has a new or old failure and needs support with arbitration or leverage at the stealership, Servco or with Toyota Motor Corp.

Thanks
Tim Phillips
(02tacotim)

Sarah at All Pro Offroad

1. 05 TRD Offroad (SR5) w/E-Locker VIN: 5TELU42N45Z052966, 02/05 CA

2. 285/75/R16 BFG A/Ts

3. 15,931 mi

3. Normal driving when breakage occured

me tu05

1. 05 V6 TRD OFF ROAD W/ E Locker VIN: 5TEUU42NX5Z0982225 MAY 05

2. 285/75R16 TRUXUS MT'S

3. 16,994 miles

4. normal driving on pavement.

my05taco

1. 2005 TRD Off Road w/ E Locker

2. Stock tires (265 70 16)

3. 8000

4. normal driving on pavement

TRDForMe

1. 2005 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road (E-Locker)

2. Stock tires/wheels 265/70/16

3. 10,000 +/- miles

4. 1st gear in my driveway. 6 inches of snow. In 4 wheel drive.

TheMike

1. 05 TRD Off Road w/e-locker

2. 285 75/16's

3. 17,500

4. 4H, dirt road after wheeling. Just came out of 4L. Went bang driving straight just after reconfiguring. Modified vehicle (very well maintained) but still replaced under warranty.

Tacoma Technical Information

219.240.12.185 — Thu, 20 Apr 2006 00:54:21 GMT

Summary:

.

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3 Inch Body Lift

209.221.41.224 — Sun, 09 Apr 2006 04:01:52 GMT

Summary:

Here's how we installed my 4crawler 3" on my 03 Xcab Prerunner (sorry no pics, it was raining all day):

We started with the bed, because it was going to be easier.

Open your gas door and remove the 4 screws holding the plastic "cup" in place. Pull up on the cup and it'll come off of the filler neck.

If you have the tow package, remove it as it's difficult to get at the rear most bed bolts with it in place. After removing it, you'll need a 17mm socket and ratchet along with about two 6" extensions. Put the extensions through the hole in the frame and then attach the socket from inside the frame rail. A cheater bar or a good aircompressor/tools will make the task much easier.

Remove the rear mud flaps for better access to the 2nd bolt behind the wheel wells. Still a 17mm socket. The front most bed bolt is the easiest to get at, cheater bar etc still may be useful.

We had two people to lift up on the bed and two people sliding the pucks into place. The bed is light and a hilift jack isn't really necessary unless you're doing it by yourself.

Gather your bolts and start them in their holes to keep the pucks in place. Move onto the other side and repeat. Bed is done for now.

Open the doors to the cab, remove the door sill plate and kick panel. Pull back the carpet to get at the body mount locations(looks like a plastic freeze plug). You can get to the rear ones through the storage compartments in the back floor. You'll want two people for this part, one to hold the bolt head at the top and one to loosen the nut at the bottom. These were 14mm I believe.

Next move onto the radiator/fender supports. Remove the front bumper. Two 17mm bolts per side. Disconnect the turn signal wires before you remove the bolts. Now's a good time to remove the bumper to gain access to the nut on top of the mounts. You'll need to do it later anyway, and you'll kick yourself for not removing it after you realize how much easier it woulda have been removing those bolts.

Before lifting up the cab/fenders go ahead and disconnect the steering shaft. Many people had trouble with it, but on mine it was no more difficult than the rest. Also, there are two small nuts holding the front bumper to the fenders, remove those or else you're not going to get too far. Go ahead and remove the lower radiator shroud, it has some clips on it and they just pop off. If you don't remove them, the shroud will pop off as you start lifting the body. It didn't hurt mine, but that's not saying it won't damage yours.

We placed a floor jack on a good solid pallet. Using a 4x4 and 2x4s as needed to buffer the jack against the body, we lifted it up far enough to get the pucks in and started finger tight.

Move to the other side of the truck and repeat the process. There's a reson you left all the bolts finger tight from the beginning; make sure your body lines match up, if they don't adjust them then tighten all the bolts down.

This is as far as we got before it got dark, I'll finish the writeup after everything is finished up.

Current events

201.3.244.114 — Thu, 06 Apr 2006 19:19:26 GMT

Summary:

Spill Kit

68.83.47.251 — Mon, 03 Apr 2006 22:42:04 GMT

Summary:

Spill Kit:

1. Wood plugs in assorted sizes. Use to temporarily plug a punctured tank, or seal a punctured hose.

2. Nitrile Gloves

3. Temporary Disposal Bag, 4 mil at least

4. Absorbent Material – puppy training pads, old towels

5. Inert absorbents such as kitty litter, vermiculite, powdered laundry detergent

6. Plastic Zip Ties, 12"

7. Drip Pan 10.5"x10.5"

Wear rubber gloves. Start on the outer perimeter, surround the spill and work inwards, scooping oil-soaked material into buckets as it becomes saturated. For large spills, place soaked material in doubled garbage bags. Seal the inner bag tightly and separately from the outer garbage bag. use generous quantities of absorbent materials like kitty litter or powdered laundry detergent to darn up and absorb the oil.

No Smoking - Keep all sources of ignition away from the area.

Rear Driveshaft Spacer

Mnett77 — Thu, 09 Mar 2006 05:42:02 GMT

Summary:

Another way to help cure your rear driveline woe's is to install a spacer between the pinion flange and the driveline. On extended cab and double cab models you can also drop the carrier bearing down using flat washers to help the driveline angle (See the next article). Installing a spacer will push the slip yoke back together after lifting the truck. The other alternative is to get your driveshaft lenghtened which can cost upward of
$300-400. There are several advantages to using a spacer.
First of all is the cost. I had several made for about $60 - $65 each depending on the thickness. I recommend 5/8" for a typical 2.5" - 3" lift. A 3/4" will work for a typical 4" lift.
Second is the spacer saves wear on your entire driveline. By pushing the slip yoke back together you reduce the wobble of the driveshaft. This wobble is what contributes to vibrations, U-joint wear, pinion seal wear, carrier bearing wear, tailshaft seal wear, and slip yoke wear.
Third is you get back the lost extension travel that was taken away when you lifted the truck and didn't get the driveshaft extended. There is nothing to keep the driveshaft from simply pulling apart at the slip yoke under extreme extension. A spacer will help!
Fourth is the spacers are made from billet aluminum so as long as you don't have a 600 h.p. engine, you're not going to break it. Additionally being that they are aluminum it reduces the reciprocating mass compared to a steel spacer.
Fifth is you should be able to return your slip yoke to very near stock setting by a simple bolt on part as opposed to taking the driveline completely out and getting it cut and rewelded with a longer tube. The tapered tube drivelines are especially expensive to have lengthened.
Disadvantages are that in extreme short driveline/high angle situations (Such as a Jeep CJ/Wrangler) using a spacer will increase the u-joint angles causing extra stress and potential vibration.
Would not recommend for extreme rock crawling, smashing and thrashing, but great for the daily driver/moderate use truck.

[[Image:DSC00977.JPG|thumb|Description]] Spacer and Bolts
[[Image:DSC01023.JPG|thumb|Description]] [[Image:DSC01045.JPG|thumb|Description]]
[[Image:DSC00974.JPG|thumb|Description]]
[[Image:DSC00972.JPG|thumb|Description]]
[[Image:DSC00973.JPG|thumb|Description]]
[[Image:DSC00986.JPG|thumb|Description]]

5/8" and 3/4" Side view

Before spacer installation

Slip yoke pulled apart (example of over extension)

5/8" spacer with Grade 10.9 hardware installed

Spacer installed and slip yoke reset to stock (yellow paint marks on slip yoke)

Carrier bearing spaced down 1/2" on both sides

Speedometer error

Hytenor — Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:52:11 GMT

Summary:

; Correcting Speedometer Error :

The cheap method is to swap out the Speedo drive gear (located on the passenger side of the tcase) with one that has a different tooth count. This method will not usually get you 'dead-on' but can get you darn close depending on how far off your speedo is. You will need to find out exactly what your % of error is either up or down before choosing another gear.
The best way is to use a GPS unit to find out your true speed as it relates to what your speedo shows. the other way is to have someone with an accurate speedo pace you.

Once you figure the percentage of error you can figure out if swapping gears will help much or at all. price from trdparts4u.com is around $20

gears available:
*28t pt# 33403-39585
*30t pt# 33403-39365
*31t pt# 33403-39345
*32t pt# 33403-39425
*33t pt# 33403-39415
these pt#s are for the Gen 2 & 3 trucks, ie, '98-'04 but can be made to work with Gen 1 trucks, '95.5-'97 '''(*)'''
each tooth is good for about a 3% change

In the example above for going from 31" to 33" tires w/o regearing, the 6.45% error could be corrected with going down 2 teeth since the speedo is reading slower than actual.
If the truck in question has a 30t (standard for v6 trucks) gear, go to a 28t.

If you are reading faster than actual, a 32t gear would get you back to near-normal.

As you can surmise this is an imperfect solution and will not work at all if your error % if too high and/or your OE drive gear is of such a tooth count that going up or down won't correct the amount of error. for example: If you have a 2.7 with a 32t gear and your speedo is reading 10% faster than actual you would need at least a 35t gear to even get close...and there ain't one. Also, factory speedos are only accurate to around 5% so each truck may be a little different. This is why you must calculate your error % first.

Swapping gears takes about 5 minutes if you go slowly. Removing the gear will cause a little oil to escape but it's not much...just be ready with a rag to catch the dribble.
[http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/misc/speedo%20drive%20gear/]

'''(*)'''On the Gen 1 trucks you will need to press the plastic gears from each shaft and press on the new gear to your OE shaft. It is not hard at all.
writeup: [http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=949744&postcount=6]

This will get you "close" but not perfect. OE speedos are only accurate within 5% so remember that if you ever get a ticket ;)

Most v6 trucks have 30t gears. The 2.7s can have 5 different gears depending on model, diff gears, tranny, etc. you will need to remove your gear and read the stamped # on the plastic gear to determine what you have. Even running your VIN# will not be accurate. According to my VIN# print out I was supposed to have a 30t on my 2.7 5sp with 4.30 diff gears...I had a 32t in actuality.

; When the gear swap won't cut it :

The only way to get your speedo perfect is to install one of three units, the Dakota Digital, [http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/category_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd126.htm], ($80): the Yellow Box [http://www.blackrobotics.com/index.htm], $110; or the Superlift ($160-180 ), [http://www.superlift.com/accessories/truspeed.asp]
these can be 'dialed in' with a set of switches to get your speedo reading dead on.
Install is a little complicated and requires some electrical skills.

3RZ-FE 2.7L Parts

ShowStop — Thu, 09 Feb 2006 23:58:03 GMT

Summary:

*00211-TT101-03 - Toyota tailgate logo, die cut, gray
*00211-TC102-03 - Tacoma tailgate logo, die cut, gray
*12204-75010 - PCV Valve
*19101-75010 - Distributor Cap
*19102-16010 - Rotor
*23300-79446 - Fuel Filter
*90919-01176 - Denso standard spark plug
*43340-39286 - Lower ball joint, front left
*43330-39366 - Lower ball joint, front right
*45047-39175 - Outer tie-rod, left side
*90080-36071 - Wheel bearing, front(w/ manual hub)
*90312-95001 - Oil seal, outside wheel bearing (hub side)
*90521-99114 - Snap ring, outside wheel bearing (hub side)
*90316-69001 - Oil seal, inside wheel bearing (axle side)
*43521-35010 - Hub lock nut
*43422-60060 - Hub gasket, housing
*43531-60010 - Hub gasket, outer cover

Dual Transfer Cases

Shovelracer — Sun, 29 Jan 2006 19:21:41 GMT

Summary:

Inchworm dual case writeup: http://www.njttora.com/Pages/Tech/Crawler%20Writeup.doc
Add if you like, please don't edit original.

Lifting Your Tacoma: A Beginners' Guide

TacoViva — Mon, 16 Jan 2006 03:23:50 GMT

Summary:

Coming Soon!

Fabtech 6 inch lift

TacoViva — Mon, 16 Jan 2006 03:06:15 GMT

Summary:

Here is the Fabtech 6" lift installation instructions which covers far more detail than the Fabtech instructions. Plus pictures. http://www.dorianjepsen.com/tacoma/suspensionlift/index.php

Individual Toyota Truck Owners' Sites

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 21:14:42 GMT

Summary:

'''These are links to personal sites and photo/video galleries for individual Toyota Truck owners. Most of these individuals are fellow TTORA members. Whenever possible, their TTORA member names are used to assist in referrencing/contacting them with any questions or comments.'''

* '''[http://www.bajataco.com/index.html bajataco]'''
----
* '''[http://www.norcalttora.com/~bob/ BigBadBob0]'''
----
* '''[http://www.frankentaco.com/ Robert Cannon/Frankentaco]'''
----
* '''[http://davel3e.tripod.com/wheels.html Dave's Tacoma Page]'''
----
* '''[http://www.geoffdavis.com/wordpress/toyota-tacoma/ Geoff Davis]'''
----
* '''[http://community.webshots.com/user/go4x4ndude100 Davis379's pics]'''
----
* '''[http://www.tacodab.com/ tacodab]'''
----
* '''[http://www.larsdennert.com/4runner Lars Dennert]'''
----
* '''[http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/ Dick Foster]'''
----
* '''[http://community.webshots.com/user/dostacos100 DosTacos]'''
----
* '''[http://turbocrawler.tripod.com/ Harry's Toyota Truck Page]'''
----
* '''[http://community.webshots.com/user/hebson1970 kyle]'''
----
* '''[http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/ hytenor]'''
----
* '''[http://www.inspectorgadgets.com/ inspectorgadgets]'''
----
::* '''[http://community.webshots.com/user/inspectorgadgets inspectorgadgets' pics]'''
----
* '''[http://128.83.80.200/taco/jacob.html Jacob's 4Runner]'''
----
* '''[http://www.lieblweb.com/ Janster]'''
----
* '''[http://www.angelfire.com/extreme3/mytaco/ Matt's Tacoma Page]'''
----
* '''[http://musclesliver.tripod.com/nyautoshow/id7.html musclesliver]'''
----
* '''[http://www.mdh1.homestead.com/ ocmike]'''
----
* '''[http://www.norcalttora.com/~brian/Taco/SAS/index.htm Oppositeboy's SAS Page]'''
----
* '''[http://www.parksoffroad.com/ TRD4ME / PARKSOFFROAD.COM]'''
----
::* '''[http://www.sr4x4s.homelinux.com/ Peter's Pics & Vids]'''
----
* '''[http://www.toy4x4.net/ Mike]'''
----
* '''[http://www.ttora.com/~switch/Tacoma.htm Switch]'''
----
* '''[http://www.tankota.com/ tankota]'''
----
* '''[http://pictures.uu4x4.net/ Ted]'''
----
* '''[http://tacomaterritory.com/~tqm3/ TQM3]'''
----
* '''[http://www.watrd.com/ WATRD]'''
----
* '''[http://www.nowwgasa.net/ Wgasa84]'''
----

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Back to the [[Links]] Page

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Magazines/Media

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 20:29:39 GMT

Summary:

* '''[http://www.4wdonline.com/4WD.html 4WD Online Magazine]'''
----
* '''[http://www.4wdtoyotaowner.com/ 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine]'''
----
* '''[http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/ 4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility Magazine]'''
----
* '''[http://www.actionpov.com/ ActionPOV]'''
----
* '''[http://www.fourwheeler.com/ Four Wheeler Magazine]'''
----
* '''[http://www.off-roadweb.com/ Off-Road Magazine]'''
----
* '''[http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/ Petersen's 4 Wheel & Off-Road Magazine]'''
----
* '''[http://www.rockcrawler.com/ Rockcrawler Magazine]'''
----
* '''[http://www.4x4extremevideos.com/ RP Films]'''
----
* '''[http://www.superlift.tv/ Superlift TV]'''
----
* '''[http://www.xtremeoffroadmag.com/ Xtreme Offroad Magazine]'''
----

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Back to the [[Links]] Page

Return to the [[Main Page]]

Offroad Racing/Competition Organizations

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 20:25:42 GMT

Summary:

* '''[http://www.calrocs.com/ CalROCS]'''
----
* '''[http://www.corracing.com/ CORR]'''
----
* '''[http://www.neuroc.com/ NEUROC]'''
----
* '''[http://www.sportsintherough.com/ ProROCK]'''
----
* '''[http://www.score-international.com/ SCORE]'''
----
* '''[http://www.uroc.com/ UROC]'''
----
* '''[http://www.we-rock.cc/ W.E. ROCK]'''
----
* '''[http://www.xrra.com/ XRRA]'''
----

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Back to the [[Links]] Page

Return to the [[Main Page]]

Land Use Organizations & Information

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 20:19:31 GMT

Summary:

'''Links to organizations, agencies, and Web sites that seek to promote and preserve access to land for use by off-highway vehicles (OHV).'''

----
===U.S. & Canada===
----
* '''[http://www.arra-access.com/ Americans for Responsible Recreational Access]'''
----
* '''[http://www.sharetrails.org/ Blue Ribbon Coalition]'''
----
* '''[http://lists.off-road.com/mailman/listinfo/landuse Land Use Mailing List]'''
----
* '''[http://www.propertyrightsresearch.org/ Property Rights Research]'''
----
* '''[http://www.treadlightly.org/ TreadLightly]'''
----

===State/Regional===
----
'''Montana'''

* '''[http://www.mtmultipleuse.org/index.htm Montanans For Multiple Use]'''
----
'''Tennessee'''

* '''[http://www.state.tn.us/environment/ohv/index.html TN Dept. of Environment and Conservation: OHV Index]'''
----
'''Texas'''

* '''[http://www.texasmotorizedtrails.com/ Texas Motorized Trails]'''
----

'''Utah'''

* '''[http://www.usa-all.com/ Utah Shared Access Alliance]'''
----

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Back to the [[Links]] Page

Return to the [[Main Page]]

4WD/Offroad Organizations

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 19:17:07 GMT

Summary:

'''4WD/Offroad organizations and associations in the U.S. and Canda, and abroad.'''

----
===U.S. & Canada===
----
* '''[http://www.ufwda.org/ United 4WD Association]'''
----
===State/Regional===
----
* '''[http://www.asa4wdc.org/ Arizona State Association of 4WD Clubs]'''
----
* '''[http://www.cal4wheel.com/ California Association of 4WD Clubs]'''
----
* '''[http://www.corva.org/ California Off Road Vehicle Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.hightrails.org/ Colorado Association of 4WD Clubs]'''
----
* '''[http://www.ec4wda.org/ East Coast 4WD Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.fl4wda.com/ Florida 4WD Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.glfwda.org/ Great Lakes 4WD Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.ifwda.org/ Indiana 4WD Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.m4x4a.org/ Montana 4x4 Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.nufwa.org/ Nevada United Four Wheelers Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.nea4wd.org/ Northeast Association of 4WD Clubs]'''
----
* '''[http://www.okfwda.org/ Oklahoma 4WD Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.pnw4wda.org/ Pacific Northwest 4WD Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.sfwda.org/ Southern 4WD Assocation]'''
----
* '''[http://www.swfwda.org/ Southwest 4WD Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.va4wda.org/ Virginia 4WD Association]'''
----
* '''[http://www.w4wda.org/ Wisconsin 4WD Association]'''
----
===International===
----
* '''[http://www.aawdc.org.za/ Association of All Wheel Drive Clubs of Southern Africa]'''
----
* '''[http://www.anfwdc.asn.au/ Australian National 4WD Council]'''
----
* '''[http://www.nzfwda.org.nz/ New Zealand 4WD Association]'''
----

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Back to the [[Links]] Page

Return to the [[Main Page]]

Toyota-Specific Sites

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 19:01:12 GMT

Summary:

==Sites with information on a variety of topics related to Toyota trucks.==

----
* '''[http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/ 4x4 Wire - Toyota]'''
----
* '''[http://www.off-road.com/toyota/index.html Off-Road.com - Toyota]'''
----
* '''[http://www.toyotalinks.com/ ToyotaLinks.com]'''
----

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Back to the [[Links]] Page

Return to the [[Main Page]]

4WD/Offroad Information Sites

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 18:48:01 GMT

Summary: /* These sites offer information on a variety of topics related to 4WD vehicles and offroading. Such topics include, but are not limited to, vehicle maintenance and modification, product tests and co

==These sites offer information on a variety of topics related to 4WD vehicles and offroading. Such topics include, but are not limited to, vehicle maintenance and modification, product tests and comparisons, trip journals and reports, and news from the world of 4WD vehicles and offroading.==

{{compactTOC2}}

----
<div id="4"></div>
* '''[http://www.4x4review.com/default.asp 4x4 Review]'''
----
* '''[http://www.4x4wire.com/ 4x4 Wire]'''
----
* '''[http://www.4wdtrips.net/ 4WDTrips.net]'''
----
* '''[http://www.4wdriver.com/ 4WDriver.com]'''
----
<div id="D"></div>
* '''[http://www.dirtopia.com/ Dirtopia.com]'''
----
<div id="E"></div>
* '''[http://www.expeditionswest.com/ Expeditions West]'''
----
<div id="M"></div>
* '''[http://www.mor4wd.com/ mor4wd]'''
----
<div id="N"></div>
* '''[http://www.nowwgasa.net/ nowwgasa.net]'''
----
<div id="O"></div>
* '''[http://www.off-road.com/toc/ Off-Road.com]'''
----
<div id="P"></div>
* '''[http://www.parksoffroad.com/ Parks Offroad]'''
----
* '''[http://www.pirate4x4.com/ Pirate4x4]'''
----
<div id="T"></div>
* '''[http://trailslesstraveled.com/index.php Trails Less Traveled]'''
----

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Parts/Accessories/Equipment Retailers

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 09:54:46 GMT

Summary:

Fabrication & Custom Parts

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 09:40:39 GMT

Summary: /* This directory is simply a list of businesses and sites, and no recommendations, guarantees, or endorsements are made regarding the quality of service you might expect from any of the businesses/si

Manufacturers

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 09:24:00 GMT

===This directory is simply a list of businesses and sites, and no recommendations, guarantees, or endorsements are made regarding the quality of service you might expect from any of the businesses/sites listed. No recommendations are expressed or implied, regarding the quality of services/products offered or provided. For a list of vendors recommended by TTORA members, please visit the [[Vendors]] page of the TTORA FAQ.===

{{compactTOC2}}

----
<div id="4"></div>
* '''[http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml 4Crawler]'''
----
<div id="A"></div>
* '''[http://www.advanceadapters.com/ Advance Adapters]'''
----
* '''[http://www.alcanspring.com/ Alcan Spring]'''
----
* '''[http://www.aewheel.com/default.cfm American Eagle Wheels]'''
----
* '''[http://www.americanracing.com/ American Racing Wheels]'''
----
* '''[http://www.aor4x4.com/index.htm AOR]'''
----
* '''[http://www.arbusa.com/ ARB]'''
----
<div id="B"></div>
* '''[http://www.redart.com/ Beard Seats]'''
----
* '''[http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/ BF Goodrich]'''
----
* '''[http://www.bilstein.com/ Bilstein]'''
----
* '''[http://www.bluetorchfab.com/ Blue Torch FabWorks]'''
----
* '''[http://www.bridgestone.com/ Bridgestone Tires]'''
----
<div id="C"></div>
* '''[http://www.camburg.com/ Camburg]'''
----
* '''[http://www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm Cole Hersee (Electrical comonents)]'''
----
* '''[http://www.cornfedsuspension.com/ Cornfed Suspension]'''
----
* '''[http://www.ctmracing.com/ CTM Racing Products]'''
----
* '''[http://www.currieenterprises.com/ Currie Enterprises]'''
----
<div id="D"></div>
* '''[http://www.daystarproducts.com/ Daystar]'''
----
* '''[http://www.desertcommunication.net/deaverspring.html Deaver]'''
----
* '''[http://www.detroitlocker.com/ Detroit Locker]'''
----
* '''[http://www.diamondaxle.com/ Diamond Axles]'''
----
* '''[http://www.dickcepek.com/ Dick Cepek Tires & Wheels]'''
----
* '''[http://www.doetsch-shocks.com/ Doetsch Shocks]'''
----
* '''[http://www.donahoeracing.com/ Donahoe Racing]'''
----
* '''[http://www.dynatrac.com/ Dynatrac]'''
----
<div id="E"></div>
* '''[http://www.energysuspension.com/ Energy Suspension]'''
----
* '''[http://www.extremeoutback.com/ Extremeaire]'''
----
<div id="F"></div>
* '''[http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/ Fabtech]'''
----
* '''[http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/ Flowmaster]'''
----
* '''[http://www.foxracingshox.com/ Fox Racing Shox]'''
----
<div id="G"></div>
* '''[http://www.gibsonperformance.com/ Gibson Exhaust]'''
----
* '''[http://www.goodyear.com/ Goodyear]'''
----
<div id="H"></div>
* '''[http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/Internet_usa.jsp Hella]'''
----
* '''[http://www.hi-lift.com/ Hi-Lift]'''
----
<div id="I"></div>
* '''[http://www.inchwormgear.com/index.php Inchworm Gear]'''
----
* '''[http://www.intercotire.com/ Interco Tire]'''
----
<div id="J"></div>
* '''[http://www.jd2.com/ JD Squared]'''
----
<div id="K"></div>
* '''[http://www.kchilites.com/ KC HiLiTES]'''
----
<div id="K"></div>
* '''[http://www.kingshocks.com/ King Shocks]'''
----
* '''[http://www.klunev.com/ Klune-V]'''
----
<div id="L"></div>
* '''[http://www.lcengineering.com/ LC Engineering]'''
----
<div id="M"></div>
* '''[http://www.magnaflow.com/ Magnaflow]'''
----
* '''[http://www.marlincrawler.com/ Marlin]'''
----
* '''[http://www.mastercraftseats.com/ MasterCraft Seats]'''
----
* '''[http://www.maxxis.com/ Maxxis Tires]'''
----
* '''[http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/ Mickey Thompson Tires & Wheels]'''
----
* '''[http://www.milemarker.com/ Mile Marker]'''
----
* '''[http://www.moserengineering.com/ Moser Engineering]'''
----
<div id="N"></div>
* '''[http://www.northwestoffroad.com/ NWOR]'''
----
<div id="O"></div>
* '''[http://www.offroadair.net/ OffRoadAir]'''
----
* '''[http://www.optimabatteries.com/ Optima Batteries]'''
----
* '''[http://www.outbackequipped.com/ Outback Air]'''
----
<div id="P"></div>
* '''[http://www.performanceaccessories.com/ Performance Accessories]'''
----
* '''[http://www.pitbulltires.com/ Pit Bull Tires]'''
----
* '''[http://www.powertrax.com/ Powertrax]'''
----
* '''[http://www.precisiongear.com/ Precision Gear]'''
----
* '''[http://www.explorerprocomp.com/ Pro-Comp]'''
----
* '''[http://www.pro-tools.com/ Pro Tools]'''
----
<div id="R"></div>
* '''[http://www.ramsey.com/ Ramsey Winch]'''
----
* '''[http://www.gorancho.com/ Rancho]'''
----
* '''[http://www.revtek.com/ Revtek]'''
----
* '''[http://www.richmondgear.com/ Richmond Gear]'''
----
* '''[http://www.rockcrusher-usa.com/ Rockcrusher Diffs]'''
----
<div id="S"></div>
* '''[http://www.skidplates.com/ Skid Row]'''
----
* '''[http://www.skyjacker.com/ Skyjacker]'''
----
* '''[http://www.softopper.com/ Softopper]'''
----
* '''[http://www.staunproducts.com/ Staun]'''
----
* '''[http://www.superioraxle.com/ Superior Axle & Gear]'''
----
* '''[http://www.superlift.com/ Superlift]'''
----
* '''[http://www.swayaway.com/ Sway-A-Way]'''
:'''[http://www.racerunnershocks.com/ Racerunner Shocks]'''
----
<div id="T"></div>
* '''[http://www.terra-guard.com/ Terra Guard]'''
----
* '''[http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/ Thorley Headers]'''
----
* '''[http://www.tjmbullbars.com/ TJM]'''
----
* '''[http://www.chaosfab.com/ Total Chaos]'''
----
* '''[http://www.toyo.com/ Toyo Tires]'''
----
* '''[http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.html ToyTec Lifts]'''
----
* '''[http://www.tractech.com/ Tractech]'''
----
* '''[http://www.trailmastersuspension.com/ TrailMaster]'''
----
* '''[http://www.trailready.com/ TrailReady]'''
----
* '''[http://www.tuffcountry.com/ TuffCountry]'''
----
* '''[http://www.tuffyproducts.com/ Tuffy Products]'''
----
<div id="U"></div>
* '''[http://www.uwsta.com/ UWS Truck Accessories]'''
----
<div id="V"></div>
* '''[http://www.viaircorp.com Viair]'''
----
<div id="W"></div>
* '''[http://www.warn.com/ Warn]'''
----
<div id="X"></div>
* '''[http://www.xtremecrawlers.com/ Xtreme Crawlers]'''
----
<div id="Y"></div>
* '''[http://www.yokohamatire.com/ Yokohama Tires]'''
----
* '''[http://www.yukongear.com/ Yukon Gear]'''
----

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Return to the [[Main Page]]

Links

Synovus — Fri, 28 Oct 2005 07:25:05 GMT

Summary:

* [[Manufacturers]]
* [[Fabrication & Custom Parts]]
* [[Parts/Accessories/Equipment Retailers]]
* [[4WD/Offroad Information Sites]]
* [[Toyota-Specific Sites]]
* [[4WD/Offroad Organizations]]
* [[Land Use Organizations & Information]]
* [[Offroad Racing/Competition Organizations]]
* [[Magazines/Media]]
* [[Individual Toyota Truck Owners' Sites]]

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2.7L superchargers

Supercharged 2.7L — Wed, 12 Oct 2005 06:01:23 GMT

Summary:

2.7L / 2.4L Supercharger Basics.

First, I highly recommend Gadget’s outstanding supercharger website at: http://www.gadgetonline.com/super.htm

Please take the time to go over all the information there! It’s well worth it!

* What about the 2.4L Tacoma?

The 2.7L kits should work with the 2.4L Tacoma however some tuning may be needed.

* What superchargers are available for the 2.7L Tacoma?

It gets a little confusing...

Eaton makes the blowers, but doesn’t make the kits needed to mount them to specific cars. Then companies buy the Eaton blowers then fabricate the parts needed to install them on specific vehicles. These companies either market the kits themselves or sell them to other companies to do the marketing...

The first supercharges for the Tacoma were for the V6 Tacomas and sold by TRD. They used the Eaton M62 blower.

* Who made the first 2.7L Tacoma Supercharger?

Alpine is a company in South Africa that made kits for the 2.7L Hi-Lux P/U which look exactly like our Tacoma. There are differences however, here in the EPA-USA we have EGR valves and other emission equipment not needed in Africa.

Anyway, I was the first person in North America that imported the 2.7L Hi-Lux kit and managed to modify it to work on my Taco... Nuke was the second person to buy the kit, but his kit was modified to have the EGR valve mount.

* Who made the TRD 2.7L Kits?

TRD contacted Alpine and contracted with them to make the TRD 2.7L kits.

* What are the differences in the Alpine Kit?

The difference was the Alpine Hi-Lux kit used the M90 supercharger where the TRD kits were all M62 blowers that are much smaller. The Alpine kits also had fuel enhancements like a 5th injector and the Unichip Piggyback controller... The Alpine kit came in two varieties offering lower and higher boost. The higher boost kit included a decompression kit to lower the Taco’s compression to support higher boost. That’s the one I bought. Both seem to work well with the 2.7L Tacos.

From what I have heard, the TRD 2.7L blowers had lots of problems and TRD then stopped selling the kits and URD took over selling TRD kits. I don’t know much about the TRD kits or the URD kits so I can’t help ya much there. Hopefully someone will fill in this information!

What I can say is there is a big difference between the Alpine kits and the TRD/URD kits. The people that bought the Alpine kits seem to be happy with them.

* How can I find out if the Alpine kit is still available?

You may want to contact Alpine directly and order their M90 2.7L kit if it’s still available... alpturbo@iafrica.com BE SURE TO TELL THEM YOU ARE A MEMBER OF TTORA!! Only TTORA members can get Alpine supercharges directly.

* How much power does the Alpine kits have?

According to Nuke, the lower boost kit will give you the performance of a stock V6 and it’s a lot easier to install because you don’t have to do the decompress.

The high boost kit will give you almost the performance of a V6 with the stock TRD supercharger kit. However, the installation is much more complex because of the decompression kit. This means you have to also take the head off make a few extra modifications then replace the head using two head gaskets and the Alpine decompression spacer. This greatly increases the complexity of the install and you need someone that can pull the cams and the head off, and then reinstall them. No small task... It takes experience working with overhead cams, cam timing and especially attention to detail. You need experience with this before you tackle it on your own.

If I were to do it again, I’d still get the Alpine hi boost kit because of the difference in power levels... It’s really fun smoking stock V6 Tacomas with a 4...

Understanding Front Tacoma Lifts

Equin — Fri, 07 Oct 2005 21:46:23 GMT

Summary:

The Suspension Modification FAQ includes excellent info on the different brands, methods and "how-to's" available to lift the front of 4wd and Prerunner Tacomas. However, due to the number of threads asking about front lifts on the main TTORA board, I thought it would be helpful to explain how they work in this submission.

Control Arm Type Lifts:

A "control arm" type lift is achieved by pushing down on the control arm assembly, thereby lifting the front of the truck upwards. This type of lift uses the front suspension's available wheel travel. One way to push down on the control arm assembly is to use a coil spring spacer, such as an All-Pro spacer, a Cornfed spacer, a Revtek spacer, etc. Another way is to use a longer coil spring, such as a longer Old Man Emu (OME, not to be confused with "OEM") coil spring that replaces the stock coil spring, or an adjustable coilover that replaces the whole stock strut/coilover assembly.
A longer coil spring does not require a longer front shock. In fact, the same stock shock/strut can be used. However, it is usually recommended that a new shock/strut be used to replace the stock one in order to improve damping performance, especially if the new, longer coil has a higher spring rate (which is usually the case) than the stock coil spring. The longer coil spring will achieves lift by virtue of its longer length pushing down on the control arm assembly, thereby pushing the front of the truck upwards. A coil spring spacer acts the same way - the spacer, by adding length to a stock coil spring (or, in some instances, by adding length to an aftermarket coil spring that may have sagged over time or which is not long enough to achieve the desired lift), results in the control arm assembly being pushed down accordingly.
An adjustable coilover includes a new shock, sometimes with a threaded shock body, a new coil spring (usually of a higher spring rate than the stock coil spring), and a means to adjust the ride height of the suspension by means of an adjustable collar ring. Most adjustable coilovers, such as the Downey/Bilstein coilovers or the Fabtech/Fox coilovers, have the adjustable collar ring at the bottom of the coilover assembly. Ride height is adjusted upwards by "cranking" or threading the collar rings upwards. The bottom of the coil spring sits on the collar ring, and when the collar ring is threaded upwards on the shock body, the shock body is forced down, thereby pushing the control arm assembly downwards and causing the front of the truck to lift upwards.
It is important to note that a control arm type lift should not be used to lift the front of the truck more than 2.5", with 3" being the absolute max, despite the claim by some adjustable coilovers as being 3.5" coilovers. As once explained to me many years ago by David, of Cornbred/Cornfed fame, it is possible to lift the front by 3.5", however, it is strongly recommended that it not be lifted more than 2.5", with 3" being the absolute max, so as to avoid the added stress placed on the CV boots and axles, the ball joints (especially the upper ball joint), the tie rod ends and possibly even the rack and pinion steering. This added stress is caused by the increased angle placed on these components from the lift.
If you jack the front of the truck up using a hydraulic jack, you will see what I mean as the front tires droop downwards off the ground. The CV boot fins will then touch, potentially resulting in them to wear prematurely on ADD-equipped Tacomas which have the front CV axles rotating along with the wheels rotation. However, even those with manual hubs (non-ADD) should avoid the temptation to lift the front too high because severe angles will also be placed on the ball joints (especially the upper one) and the tie rod ends.
Another reason not to go over the 2.5"-3" max is wheel travel (sometimes erroneously referred to as "articulation" or erroneously interchanged with "flex"). The amount of front wheel travel for a stock Tacoma is about 7" to 8". That leaves roughtly 3.5" of downtravel (extension - or tire droop) and about 3.5" of up travel (compression - or tire stuffing). Since control arm type lifts use (or sacrifice) the available downtravel to achieve lift, then that downtravel is no longer available. In other words, the lift is using it already. So if you have 2.5" of lift, then all you have left is about 1" of downtravel - not much - and the remaining 3.5" or so of uptravel.
Again, let's not confuse wheel travel with articulation or flex. Articulation is best left for discussion of a solid axle suspension, where one side of the axle articulates up, while the other side articulates down, using the front differential as a kind of fulcrum. Flex is also a different issue. Flex is the ability of a coil spring or leaf pack to compress and extend. For example, the higher the spring rate, the more force it takes to compress (or flex). However, wheel travel remains the same, even though a coil spring with a high spring rate may not flex as much and may therefore make it appear as though wheel travel has lessened.

Drop Bracket Type Lifts:

A drop bracket type lift uses drop brackets to lower the suspension components on the vehicle, thereby pushing the truck upwards. Unlike a control arm type lift (such as with a coil spacer or an adjustable coilover), a drop bracket type lift usually retains the stock geometric angles, thereby allowing the lift kit itself to provide more lift than a spacer or coilover lift. Examples of drop bracket type lifts include the Pro Comp 4" and the Trailmaster 6". These lifts will allow more than just the 2" to 2.5" of lift usually allowed by a spacer or coilover lift because the geometric angles remain the same. The CV axles, ball joints and tie rod ends should still remain in the same parallel vein as in a Tacoma with a stock suspension. However, a drop bracket type lift, although allowing greater lift for bigger tires, still causes the front differential, along with some of the drop brackets themselves, to hang lower on the vehicle than with a control arm type lift. So ground clearance with respect to those components may not be as great as originally desired, but greater amount of lift is still achieved.

Long Travel Setup:

As Kevin H. (aka "ToyPrerunr"), Mike (aka "BADASSTACO"), Corey, Jordan and the folks over at race-dezert.com explained to me over the years, a long travel setup is a suspension system that is designed more for performance than it is for achieving lift. However, it has the consequence of lifting the front of the truck upwards while using high end, desert-racing inspired shock technology with adjustable coilovers. This type of suspension allows the front to achieve greater wheel travel than in its stock configuration. It is much more expensive, however, and because of the increased wheel travel, requires either fiberglass fenders or lots of sheetmetal cutting on the stock front fenders. Otherwise, the wheel/tire combo, with the greater amount of travel available, will slam into the stock front fenders and shred, deform or rip them out. Also, longer tie rod ends and CV axles (for 4x4 Tacomas) are needed since the front track of the Tacoma is widened by a few inches on each side. Long travel suspension setups are usually desired by those wanting to go fast in the desert.

Solid Front Axle:

As you probably know by now, the Tacoma's front end consists of an independent front suspension using upper and lower control arms. This suspension is great as it is in its stock form, however, those desiring to tackle much more difficult trails, such as hardcore rockcrawling trails, may want to do a solid axle swap to gain the benefits of an articulating front axle and its usually simpler and stronger design and construction. This type of swap requires cutting off the front IFS components, strengthening the front of the frame, getting a donor front axle, and deciding whether to use coils or a leaf spring setup from which to suspend the axle. Metal cutting, steel fabrication skills, welding and a good knowledge of suspension engineering, geometry and systems is a must for the do-it-yourselfer. As with a long travel setup, a solid axle swap can be expensive, even for a do-it-yourselfer, and much more so for a reputable shop to do it, and is more complicated and harder to do on a Tacoma than it is on an 89-95 pre-Tacoma IFS 4x4 Toyota pickup or 4Runner. However, if done right, the benefits of a solid axle swap will allow a 4wd Tacoma to tackle the extreme rockcrawling trails with much more ease than with the stock IFS setup. Robert Cannon, of Frankentaco fame, is the first solid-axle-swapped Tacoma that I know of, and his pioneering experimentation with it paved the way for countless others, such as Shannon and his Tacozilla and Chris K and his beast.

Hopefully, this FAQ section will help others understand how front lifts work on Tacomas. Additional information by others willing to edit or modify is welcome for the benefit of aiding Tacoma enthusiasts wanting a better understanding on how to lift the front of their truck.

Humbly submitted by Ed Quinones (aka "EQuin") on 10-7-05 after years of reading, researching and learning from the knowledgeable folk on TTORA.

Forced Induction Basics

Supercharged 2.7L — Sun, 02 Oct 2005 05:19:11 GMT

Summary: /* = */

Forced Induction Basics
By Tom Doherty

I thought I’d post this article in the Tech/FAQ section due to the general info on Forced Induction. This originally was posted in:

TTORA Forum > Tech > T-100 & Tundra Tech
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?p=189189#post189189

tundra S/C or Turbo??

Trying to decide what would be better. Any opinions?

http://www.ststurbo.com/tundra_4_7l_dyno

=====================
* Be wary of data selected to make a product LOOK good...

I didn’t like they way they presented the dyno charts... Check out the RPM at the bottom of the chart... They START at 4,000 RPM! Missing is the power curves for 99you’re your driving needs... Power starts at 4,250 rpm, peaks at 4,500 rpm... Almost looks like a MX bike... How much time are you planning to run at 4k+? Is this where you drive? Is this where you want your power to be made?

I especially didn’t like the Tacoma dyno charts... http://www.ststurbo.com/tacoma_dyno

In my opinion, this is Outright fraud...

The Supercharger is flat across the chart. Interestingly, they only show the Stock and Turbo from 3,500 up... I suspect that even the Stock makes more torque than Turbo at the lower operation rpm range... and that’s the reason I said fraud... Why didn’t they dyno the Turbo and Stock for the range of the supercharger? Obviously they did have the data and the results did NOT support the turbo, EVEN WHEN COMPARED TO STOCK!

Frankly, I wouldn’t trust a company that doesn’t publish the full dyno results... At all!

* Basic difference between the Supercharger and Turbo

So which one, Supercharger or Turbo? Well, that depends on where you want the power. If you want it at 3,500 and up, then the turbo is the way to go... If you want it where you spend most of your driving time then the supercharger. The supercharger will reduce the need to shift dramatically! The Turbo will require downshifting at least two gears to get the power...Heck, if I wanted to shift a lot, I wouldn’t have gotten the blower...

There’s no mention about the disparity in pricing in the above website! If you spent the same money on a supercharger and tuning, I think you would see much closer power levels... $4,000 for the turbo? I think I’d look for supercharger... You will get more time on boost in your day-to-day driving and a heck of a lot more power down where you live...

* What about a supercharger’s parasitic drag? What does it do to fuel costs?

As far as fuel, modern Eaton type superchargers use a bypass valve. This greatly reduces the parasitic drag of a supercharger not on boost; the only power consumed is in the rotational losses. Without the bypass valve, the blower would be constantly compressing the air INTERNALLY and this WOULD waste engine power... With the bypass, the airflow under an intake manifold vacuum takes the easier path leaving the blower compressing a partial vacuum, which takes very little power... However, the basic efficiency of the Eaton supercharger IS LOWER than the Turbos AT HIGH BOOST LEVELS...

* Doesn’t a Turbo use wasted exhaust power so it’s more efficient?

A turbo actually introduces backpressure, think about it, it’s and obstruction in the exhaust plumbing! There’s NO FREE LUNCH... How much? Well consider this... The term TURBO MUFFLER originally meant Forced Induction by Turbocharger. It came from the fact that the TURBO IS ALSO THE MUFFLER! In other words, when you put the Turbo on, you take off the muffler... The backpressure created by the Turbo acted as a muffler... Marketers took this highly specialized buzzword, and the respect it carried, and applied it to their muffler for sales appeal... The term originally meant force induction by Turbo...

* Don’t they do the same thing, force air into the engine?

Actually calling a belt driven supercharger a Supercharger and an exhaust driven supercharger (turbo supercharger) is a mater of convenience. They are both superchargers... Belt driven centrifugal Superchargers have the similar characteristics as the turbo supercharger; I.E. they produce boost at higher RPM and they are more efficient doing so, but they both do poorly at low rpm and display lag...

* So, what are the differences in use?

For normal on or off road driving, the belt driven Eaton blower is far better, for drag style driving the turbo shines... If your thing is stoplight to stoplight, get the turbo... For seamless power from idle up, get the Eaton style supercharger.

* I’ve heard that Turbochargers can work at low RPM also like the (whatever) for example.

Yes, a Turbo system CAN be designed for low-end power but since there’s no free lunch, the top end suffers. I like the Eaton style because it closely matches the engine requirements. It provides boost right off idle and the faster the engine spins, the faster the supercharger spins proportionally MAINTAINING the level of boost.

The turbo on the other hand obstructs the exhaust at low rpm, produces no boost and actually decreases power down near idle. As the engine rpm increase, the turbo gradually starts producing boost and finally reaches the desired boost. It comes on the pipe so to speak. As the engine rpm increases, the boost increases until it reaches the max-predetermined level that the blow off valve opens and vents the excess pressure (waste gate) to atmosphere. The waste gate is appropriately named because it also wastes the power used to over pressurize the system. This is accounted for by increasing the standard boost to a level that makes up for the wasted power, but the tradeoff is higher gas consumption/heat.

The innate problems with Turbos can be seen by the fact of the hybrids that have become popular. Twin Turbos allow the use of two small Turbos with less lag yet still produce the needed air volume required for hi rpm... Less lag being the operation word... Also, there are twin Turbos that have one large Turbo for top end and a small Turbo for low and midrange power... These are good, but read TWIN as expensive and/or complex.

* What about reliability of the two different systems.

The Eaton style blowers have been stone reliable, usually lasting about as long as the engine they straddle. Because of the heat involved, the Turbos haven’t faired as well.
Actually the reliability problem with a Turbo comes from improper operation. If they are NOT cooled properly on shutdown the oil in the Turbo cooks.

The fix, ALWAYS allow the engine to idle till the Turbo cools. Nobody does this all the time. The answer, if you go with a Turbo, is to get a quality Turbo Timer... The Turbo Timer will automatically keep the engine running for the cool down period after you have left the car and eliminate this particular problem and greatly extend the life of the Turbo.

* Can I have it all, the low end of the supercharger and the high range of the turbo?

THE ONLY WAY I KNOW OF to overcome the problems associated with each system is to run a Hybrid system that uses an Eaton style blower for low RPM and twin Turbos for mid and high end power... IF YOU HAVE TO ASK HOW EXPENSIVE IS THIS, YOU CAN’T AFFORD IT! http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2180560

* What other factors can influence my decision?

Another point to consider is the design of the various kits. A poor designed/tuned supercharger will suffer compared to a good twin turbo kit that is highly tuned. When talking about the efficiency of any supercharger, your dealing with mathematical formula using observed data to compute the PHYSICAL characteristic of that particular supercharger. There’s no question that at higher boost levels Turbos ARE more efficient. However, there’s a point that the ENTIRE driveline needs to be strengthened to be reliable at these boost levels. When your talking about boost levels suitable for stock components and reliability, the differences are fairly close. Consider that most automotive companies have gone with the Eaton blower; they have good reasons like cost, reliability and operating characteristics. When you see this reverse and the auto giants switch to turbochargers, then you know the technology has arrived...

* Tell me about VACUUM!

In a normally aspirated engine; vacuum is created by the pistons and regulated by the throttle. (A valve that regulates the flow of a fluid, such as the valve in an internal-combustion engine that controls the amount of vaporized fuel entering the cylinders.)

When the throttle is closed, airflow is blocked and the engine produces a high vacuum. When the throttle is then opened wide, the airflow is at it’s maximum and vacuum is greatly reduced. In a properly designed, high performance engine the vacuum should approach ‘0’. In short, the engine is getting as much air as it can. (There is a lot more involved than this...)

With forced induction and an Eaton style blower sucking through the throttle body.
The throttle still controls the airflow, naturally. When not under boost, the system is in the normally aspirated mode. When the throttle is closed, the intake manifold again goes to high vacuum, the blower isn’t getting any air to compress, the bypass valve opens and the small amount of idle air available routs through the bypass. Since little air is available to the blower, there is no internal compression by the blower and the resulting parasitic drag is eliminated. The vacuum extends from the piston right up to the throttle plate.

When the throttle is opened wide, the air now rushes to the bypass valve and the supercharger; and fills the intake manifold which goes to atmospheric pressure... almost. Without a vacuum, the bypass valve closes and all air goes to the blower. This happens FAST! The supercharger is already spinning at the correct speed and creates boost instantaneously... No downshifting, just instant boost... no lag.

What happens if the throttle is partially opened...
Everything is controlled by the manifold vacuum, which is in turn controlled by the amount of throttle opening... The engine will accelerate normally until the throttle is opened enough to trip the bypass valve... then the supercharger goes right to boost at THAT throttle level... More throttle, more boost. This is seamless, you wont feel the transition if it happens gradually. The important thing to consider here is there are NO obstructions in the Intake or Exhaust systems like with a turbo!!

An example is cruising at highway speeds. You hit a grade and press the throttle harder you get a proportional increase in power...The harder you press, the more power until your WFO... Remember the supercharger can only produce the amount of boost (up to max) that the throttle allows it airflow.

* Well, what are the drawbacks of the Eaton type supercharger?

Eaton style superchargers are NOT as efficient at high boost rates, but sufficient for stock engines, transmissions and other stock driveline components when kitted properly.

Probably the biggest design flaw I see in ALL the supercharger kits is the lack of provision for an intercooler and insufficient tuning... If someone came out with an intercooler supercharger kit I’d probably jump on it... Intercooling would seriously up the ante for the Eaton blowers... You would have a kit that could take you right up to the edge of engine destruction if you wished.

* What about Torque?

As far as rock crawling or any other application, it all boils down to torque... You either have enough or you don’t. If you don’t then you can increase it by gearing down or increase the engine’s output... There are tradeoffs to both methods. Gearing down is great, but you loose top end, which doesn’t matter if you have a dedicated rock crawler...

I once saw a buggy with a Brigs & Stratton engine and two automotive transmissions mated back to back... The available Torque was astounding. Figuring how to select the two gear selectors perplexing and when both transmissions were in reverse the top end was measured in feet per hour... All Torque, no speed...

For a dual-purpose truck this may be a problem and a crawl box might be the way to go. If you have the bucks, you can add the S/C and have it both ways... There is always trade off’s... I have found that for a dual-purpose truck the S/C 2.7L even on 33’s has met my needs... I’d go with lockers and suspension before I would feel the need to regear... and even then, I’d probably want the crawl box.

This entire article can be boiled down to; test drive each style installation you are thinking about and pick the flavor you like best... May take time and effort, but you will be happy with the results...

Forced Induction

Supercharged 2.7L — Sun, 02 Oct 2005 04:06:14 GMT

Summary:

This section discusses supercharging options.

* [[Forced Induction Basics]] by Tom Doherty
* [[2.7L superchargers]] by Tom Doherty

Replacement

Supercharged 2.7L — Sat, 01 Oct 2005 02:51:03 GMT

Summary:

I was told that the V6 clutch, pressure plate and pilot bearing will work in the 2.7L as long as you use the 2.7L release bearing.

I purchased a V6 Clutch, and pressure plate and attempted the modification.

It did NOT work! The spring assembly of the OEM V6 clutch is too deep for the 2.7L flywheel and holds the clutch surface away from the flywheel...

Steering wheel "clunk" fix.

Hytenor — Thu, 29 Sep 2005 06:19:01 GMT

Summary:

Here's an update. I installed the new shaft today . sorry no pics I cant find my camera. I was wrong about the source of the noise being in the little ball u joint. there was some play in it but there was a lot of play in the slip joint part of the shaft. You cant see it or test that section until the shaft is removed completely. I believe that all of the parts for this job can be reused except the upper shaft lower bushing. Toyota says that the bearings and a bunch of other parts are not reuseable but I found no wear or damage to most of them. Now for those of you thinking about doing this yourself there is good news. the ball u joint had very little play so I would not replace it or the upper shaft if I was doing this on my own. Since the slip joint is not splined and is 2 crimped pieces of steel fit together, it will most likely loosen up again. The joints sole purpose is to collapse in the event of a collision to avoid injury to the driver from having the steering wheel shoved into their chest. Now I was looking at the angles of the shaft and the u joint at the bottom in the engine compartment and it looks to me that that shaft could not get shoved that direction unless the firewall is pushed 4 inches back. What I did to avoid having the play and the noise come back is tack welded the slip joint so it would not start moving again (disclaimer: do this at your own risk and this is in no way an endosrement to circumvent the safety features designed into your vehicles). Then just put it all back together. From what I have seen in there if you decided to tack the joint then this job would only cost you the price of a bushing and a snap ring. I suspect that since the tack welds are very small that they would break in the event of a major accident and the joint would work as designed just dont weld the whole thing solid. The whole job took about an hour and I did not have to remove the ignition switch so no drilling out the security bolts. Hope this helps and post any questions I will answer the best I can.

exploded view:
[[http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1857]]

OHV Friendly Areas Across the US and Canada

Tenntaco — Mon, 22 Aug 2005 04:07:25 GMT

Summary:

[http://www.woodswarriors.com/parks.html OHV Friendly Areas Across the US and Canada]