From Faq
Here is what i did to relocate my optima red top battery to the bed.
parts list:
(All under $130.00)
-At least one battery connector ( 2 optional). Stock positive will work, not negative. You can find connectors at AutoZone.
-30 feet one gauge welding cable. Found at any welding supply store.
-4-10 one gauge ring connectors. May vary depending on set up. Found at any welding supply store.
-Distribution Block - 0/1 gauge input with at least 2 four gauge outputs, with a cover. I chose one with 3 outputs. You can find this at any good stereo shop.
-4 Star washers. Found at Home Depot.
-4 small self taping sheet metal screw for anchoring the distribution block. Found at Home Depot.
-Tube of Silicone (Home Depot) or grommet to fit one gauge wire (AutoZone).
-Battery Box from Camburg Engineering. WWW.Camburg.com
Tools Needed:
-Drill with bits big enough to make a hole for grommet or cable
-Ratchet and socket set
-Wire cutters
-Hammer
Writeup:
First, find a suitable place to mount the battery box. Since the box I got from Camburg wouldn’t fit in the stock location without rubbing a hole in the coolant reservoir I decided to relocate it to the bed. Place the box where it is going to go and mark the 4 holes for the mounting bolts. Drill the holes and mount it up.
Figure out which side (+,-) of your battery is on which side and figure out where you want each terminal to be. I wanted the positive terminal to be as far to the outside as possible so I put my optima red top like this.
Picture 1
Next drill the 2 holes for the cable. I used a 5/8” bit but if you are using a grommet it will be a larger size bit. Take the cable and run it thru the hole for the negative side. Go under the truck and run the cable down to where you are going to attach it to the frame. If you can find one of the holes in the frame that already has threads in it, it will make things a lot easier. Scuff up the area around the bolt hole, I used a wire brush, until you get through the paint to the bare metal. This will ensure a good connection.
Take one of the 1 gauge ring connectors and crimp it on the end of the cable. A hammer works well for this. Attach the connector to the frame using a star washer between the frame and the connector to be sure of a good connection.
Picture 2
Go up top and mark the length for the cable to reach the negative side of the battery, then make your cut in the cable. If needed, crimp another ring connector to the end of the cable. Go ahead and connect it to the battery connector and then to the battery.
Take that remaining cable and put it through the positive side hole. Feed the wire along the top side of the frame until you get to the cross member where the carrier bearing of the drive shaft is bolted to. This is where I crossed over to the driver’s side of the truck.
Picture 3
Using heavy duty zip ties, secure both of the cables down to the frame. Continue feeding the cable along the cross member and out to the frame rail securing it with zip ties as you go.
Feed the cable along the top side of the frame rail making sure it won’t get pinched by movement of the cab. Secure with more zip ties.
Feed the cable up into the engine compartment making sure to keep it clear of the suspension. Secure with more zip ties.
Run the cable up to where the stock battery was. Mount your distribution block where the stock battery was.
Pic 4
Mark and cut your cable to length and insert it into the distribution block.
Take the two leads that were connected to the positive side battery terminal (1 for the starter, 1 for the fuse box) and cut them, leaving enough length to connect them to the distribution block.
Pic 5
Strip the two leads and connect them to the distribution block.
You’re almost done!
Now its time to replace those wussy ass stock ground wires with some good cable. There are two main grounds that you will need to replace/ relocate. Since your battery is now grounded to the frame you need to ground the engine to the frame as well. The first ground that you need to replace is on the left side of the back of the engine (V-6).
Pic 6
I did not have enough one gauge left over to run it to the frame, plus I wanted to ensure that the body was still grounded so I ran that ground back to the stock location but added a connection using the four gauge wire down to the frame, here's how I routed it.
Pic’s 7, 8, and 9
The other ground is located directly underneath your oil filter, its one of the bolts above the oil pan.
Pic 10
Take one of the four gauge connectors and crimp it to the end of the four gauge wire. Replace the stock ground wire with that and run it up to where you are going to attach it to the frame. Here is where I grounded both of the four gauge ground leads (With a star washer in between the frame and connectors).
Pic 11
I used the four gauge wire because I only bought 20 feet of the one gauge wire and ran out. Eventually, when I get a chance I will replace them with the same one gauge cable.
Now that your engine is grounded go ahead and attach the positive cable to the positive post on the battery. Make sure you’ve got power and that the truck starts and runs. Take the silicone and squirt it into the holes that the wire runs through to insulate the wire (N/A if you used a grommet).
Here’s my finished result:
Picture 12
