From Faq
If you're like me, you know that the ARB compressor is ridiculously overpriced and way underpowered to inflate tires. So. You want something way mo-betta, such as a CO2 tank that will air up tires quickly and that is certainly capable of running an ARB... or so you heard. Well. I'm going to try to tell you how it's done.
First, a disclaimer you CAN blow the $600 you spent on that ARB right out the window if you're not careful. The seals on the ARB are known to be sensitive. Do not shove 150psi down the line to your ARB. The max recommended is 90psi and if I remember right the manual says it needs 80 to work. So shoot for like 80-85psi. I have a variable-pressure regulator on my CO2 tank and I use that to get close enough. If you're smart, you'll find a blow off valve of sorts that will "let go" above say 95psi.
Ok. So I ditched the silly ARB switches/solenoids that came with my ARB because they look like crap and I didn't want any electrical stuff around. Instead I went to clippard.com and found my local distributor. Mine is somewhere in Palo Alto, CA and the dude running the will call counter is VERY knowledgeable and VERY helpful.
I'm too lazy to find my invoice but I'm quite sure that the switches I'm running are the TV-3 series of switches. They are found here on the Clippard website
Close up of switch without barbs
As you might notice from the picture there isn't a place to hook the "blue line" up to on the switch. You need what are called barbs. The ARB blue line is 5mm but good luck finding 5mm stuff here in the US. Instead go with 1/8" line. The barbs will be for 1/8" line and with a little finesse (try sucking on the blue line to soften it up a little) you can force the line over the barb.
You will want teflon tape (plumbers tape) on all of the threads you deal with here.
The general idea behind my setup is that one line comes from the CO2 tank (plugs in with a quick disconnect) and runs into a 4 way T of sorts. So essentially it has one input and three outputs. Two of the outputs go into the inputs of the switches to the front and rear lockers. The last output goes into a third switch that will some day have a quick disconnect hooked into it to run auxillary stuff from.
The outputs of the switches have the blue lines going to them and they then run straight to the locker.
Notice that I never said I'm running a blow off valve anywhere. I don't recommend this. In fact, I discourage you do it. Well. Whatever. I don't really care. Just don't try to get me to buy you a new locker when you bust your seals. Even if you -do- run the blow off valve you can still blow your shit up. I don't care. Don't cry to me, it's not my fault.
I hope that helps. Feel free to mail questions to me. My email address is all over this site I'm sure. But I'm going to try to avoid a few spam messages by not giving it here.
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