SAW CO and Camburg UCA Install

[TacoGunner]

I thought I'd post up my front end SAW Coilover and Camburg Upper Control Arm install for you guys. I hope this helps some people out who are thinking about doing a similar setup. Note: I recommend having a few if not more of your buddies and a good shop full of tools (bring plenty of beer for your buds too!). It took 3 guys an honest day to complete the front end.

Stock Truck 2004 Tacoma Xtra Cab 2.7L 5spd 4x4


SAW 2.0" LT Coilovers - I almost wore these things out taking them in and out of the package before I finally got to put them on!


Camburg Upper Control Arms and Parts:




We took the stock coilover out first. Remove the 3 spring hat bolts and the lower shock mount bolt. The stock coilover should fall right out.


The SAW LT 2.0 COs were about an inch longer than my stock ones


Then take the upper ball joint castle nut off, remove the ABS sensor braket from the stock upper control arm and pop the stock UCA off of the upper ball joint. We used a 1 and 1/4" wrench as a fork to pry the two apart. One side was easier to seperate than the other, it took about 4 quick prying motions per side to pop the upper control arm loose.


We then removed the stock upper control arm. We had to remove the battery and an airbag sensor to get the UCA bolt out of the drivers side. On the passenger side we only had to remove another airbag sensor to get the UCA bolt out.


The stock UCA compared to the new Camburg UCA (driver's side). We put the arm bushings in first and then tapped in the metal sleeve. Also installed the self tapping grease zerks.




Installing the new arms was a little tricky. Feeding the bolt through the arm bushings while holding the spacing washers in place was difficult. The first two washers slid right in but we had to hammer in the last inside washer because of how tight the fit was. After securing the UCA bolt we greased up the new arm bushings (this is the passenger side UCA).


Next came the hardest part of this whole job - removing the stock upper ball joints. Our plan was to remove the spindle from the truck and put it in a vice so we could pound the ball joint out. First we took out the ABS magnetic sensor and removed the steering link, both pictured below.


Then we took off the brake calipers and rotor. Four bolts disconnected the lower bolt-on ball joint and we were ready to take the hub nut off. This requires a 36mm socket and an impact wrench. Once the nut was off we got a hardy punch and pounded the center of the shaft until the CV shaft seperated from the spindle assem. Make sure the surface around where these two seperate is clean so no dirt gets on your CV shaft.


CV shaft with spindle assem removed


Spindle removed and ready to be mounted in a vice. We protected the gear teeth with a paper towel and saran wrap.


Take the rubber boot off the ball joint and remove the snap ring (don't destroy the snap ring we had to use this on the new Camburg uniball). We used alot of WD-40 to loosen up the upper ball joint before we started pounding on it with a 7/8" socket. WD wasn't enough so we added some heat to speed the process up. I had to hit the ball joint hard several times before it popped loose from the spindle. Make sure you support the spindle very well before you start wailing on it. I'd recommend using a ball joint puller if you have one just to save the hammering and pulling the spindle off the truck. It was definately alot more interesting this way!


Upper ball joint removed


New uniball slug adapter installed in the spindle. We put lots of anti-seeze lube on the pressed fitting before putting it into the spindle.


We installed the new CO while we had the spindle off. We used a drift punch to line up the lower shock mount bolt.


Spindle reassembled. We snugged up the CV nut as tight as we could and decided to torque it to spec after putting the tire on and lowering the truck to give us something to torque against (spec calls for 174 ft-lbs)


Camburg Uniball Installed. Don't do what we did here...see how the brake caliper is hung on the frame on the left side of the picture. We couldn't get it in position on the right side of the hub with the uniball and CO installed. No big deal, we just had to take the uniball apart to feed the brake caliper to the other side of the hub.


We removed the old ABS sensor wire bracket that attached to the stock UCA and attached the sensor wire it to the new UCA with a zip-tie.


Bolt back on the lower ball joint, the brake caliper, the ABS sensor, and the steering link. The finished product looks flippin' sweet...




Jacking up the truck after putting the COs and UCAs required quite a lift!


Finished front end




Don't forget to retorque the CV shaft nuts back to spec! (mine were 175 ft-lbs)

We put 2 inches of thread at the top of the SAW CO as a start and this gave me about 3 inches of lift in the front. I'm going to drive it around like this for a week and let things settle down before I retighten everthing and bring my ride height to about 2 inches over stock. I'm going to start another thread with my rear end install (Alcan 8's and Bily 5125's) that we did shortly after finishing the front.

EDIT: Alcan 8 Leafs and Bilstein 5125's Install - http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76823

Just got some new BFG 265/75/R16 MT's (yes!!!!!!!)

[02tacomamx]

I'm watching to see how this turns out!

[exacto]

how long are the saw coil overs?

[TacoGunner]

Originally Posted by exacto

how long are the saw coil overs?

Roughly 20 inches from the top of the shock mounting plate to the center of the lower shock mount. My stock coilovers measured 19 inches, so they are about an inch longer than my stock COs (uncompressed). I'll have a side-by-side comparison picture later.

[TacoGunner]

Update

[CYi5]

as you mentioned, you can use a balljoint puller which can be rented from autozone for free, to remove the BJ from the spindle while it's still attached to the truck (info for others).

[mojavegold]

too much = doing shit the hard way...balljoint puller next time. Sure hope you replaced the CV boots while you were in there.

[SAR_Squid79]

Originally Posted by TacoGunner

I might be crazy, or maybe it's just late and I'm getting sleepy but . . .
. . . Is that UCA upside down?

[exacto]

Originally Posted by SAR_Squid79

I might be crazy, or maybe it's just late and I'm getting sleepy but . . .
. . . Is that UCA upside down?

looks like it, look at the ball joint not matching up

maybe he was just making sure they fit?

[mojavegold]

Yeah, sure looks like the arm is backwards. Like I said, beer is an evil thing Seems like one of the 4 guys would have noticed this.

[TacoGunner]

Originally Posted by SAR_Squid79

I might be crazy, or maybe it's just late and I'm getting sleepy but . . .
. . . Is that UCA upside down?

Originally Posted by exacto

looks like it, look at the ball joint not matching up

maybe he was just making sure they fit?

Originally Posted by mojavegold

Yeah, sure looks like the arm is backwards. Like I said, beer is an evil thing Seems like one of the 4 guys would have noticed this.

It's not backwards or upside down, tell me why Camburg would reinforce their arms for a downward impulsive force on the strut? Take a look at the stock/Camburg arm comparison picture above and look at the gusset welded along the joint arm. When your wheel is forced up by an obstacle it wants to tear the UCA in two, hints why the gusset would be on top and not on the bottom of the arm to counter the force generated in the UCA. I think its the angle of the picture throwing you guys off. This is the only way the spindle would align with the uniball joint.

Look at another forum, did this guy put them on backwards also? I don't think so...
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26670

[mojavegold]

Sorry my terminology wasn't the best. Not backwards, just on the wrong side. Maybe it's just the angle of the pic, but the uniball cup looks to be at the wrong angle.

[cooper4x4]

Originally Posted by SAR_Squid79

I might be crazy, or maybe it's just late and I'm getting sleepy but . . .
. . . Is that UCA upside down?

Nope.. It is good. The pic here is the pass side and the ball joint is supposed to swoop towards the rear with the gussets on top.
http://parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/a...i/P7290033.JPG

[SAR_Squid79]

Originally Posted by TacoGunner

Yeah - Here's a pic of mine:



I guess his IS right, it just looks funky in that pic.

...And I did accidentally put one on upside-down when I was doing mine - what a pain in the ass!

[TacoGunner]

Update

[KingoftheCarnivalCreation]

i just skimmed through that, but what did you end up doing with ABS sensor? i have the TC UCA's and i just let the brake lines and all dangle there, im too lazy to do anyting about it. any help?? Sorry for thread jacking, but i like the set up! i have SAW in the rear

[nation]

Originally Posted by CYi5

as you mentioned, you can use a balljoint puller which can be rented from autozone for free, to remove the BJ from the spindle while it's still attached to the truck (info for others).

ditto.u can also make your own with stuff from lowes

[TacoGunner]

Originally Posted by KingoftheCarnivalCreation

i just skimmed through that, but what did you end up doing with ABS sensor? i have the TC UCA's and i just let the brake lines and all dangle there, im too lazy to do anyting about it. any help?? Sorry for thread jacking, but i like the set up! i have SAW in the rear

I secured the ABS sensor wire at one place along the rear arm of the UCA w/ a zip-tie. There's a picture above that shows this. Should be good enough. I'll be checking to make sure nothing is rubbing a hole through the wire insulation. Someday I'd like to make a little bracket for it, but if the zip-tie works I probly won't.

Also, my truck had a bracket for the brake line that bolted to the spindle. No mod necessary.

[Mitch'SS]

I am doing almost the same exact setup starting today (with leafs in the back).

This will help me a bit!

But when my order got here yesterday the rear brake line came out of its packaging and got two kinks in it from the other items hitting it in the box.

Also the SAWs I got did not have a spanner wrench with them . (calling wheelers this morning).

[TacoGunner]

Originally Posted by Mitch'SS

I am doing almost the same exact setup starting today (with leafs in the back).

This will help me a bit!

But when my order got here yesterday the rear brake line came out of its packaging and got two kinks in it from the other items hitting it in the box.

Also the SAWs I got did not have a spanner wrench with them . (calling wheelers this morning).

I put Alcan full 8's in the back right after I did the install in the front. What leafs are you installing?

[KingoftheCarnivalCreation]

ok thank you and sorry for thread jacking! but seriously, front ends a pain in the ass to set up without the proper tools. took me around 1.5 days to fuckin put my uca's and kings i dont have a good jack or smart friend to help me do it.

[Mitch'SS]

Originally Posted by TacoGunner

I put Alcan full 8's in the back right after I did the install in the front. What leafs are you installing?

After buying all the front end items, rear shocks and wheels and tires I was strapped for cash. I am giving the Wheelers 1.5 inch 5 leaf a shot to get me buy for awhile.

I will be using some of your pics for a guide

[TacoGunner]

Pics of the finished front end

[badmoonrising]

congrats. get the leafs on yet? what shocks are you using?

[TacoGunner]

Originally Posted by badmoonrising

congrats. get the leafs on yet? what shocks are you using?

Got the leafs on right after we finished the front. Couldn't put the 5125's (10in) in the back because the bushing ID's were too small . I'm driving around gingerly with my stocker shocks until the correct bushings come in. The stock shocks just barely fit with the lift the Alcan's provided and are at full extension. I'm trying not to wheel until I get the bily's on. Every once in awhile I can hear the rear shocks bottoming out when I hit a good bump.

[AZNPG]

looks nice man

[Cruznlife1]

what is the purpose of the camburg UCA's ? Call me stupid, I dont know. I'm running alcan 9 leafs in the back, and the same saw 2.0's pictured above, cranked way up, and it aligned and rides just fine. Am I missing something ?

[TacoGunner]

Originally Posted by Cruznlife1

what is the purpose of the camburg UCA's ? Call me stupid, I dont know. I'm running alcan 9 leafs in the back, and the same saw 2.0's pictured above, cranked way up, and it aligned and rides just fine. Am I missing something ?

Without the UCA Uniball's and a lifted front I've heard of guys wearing out their upper ball joints. A lifted front forces the stock upper ball joint to operate out of its normal range. I put the new UCA's in mainly for that purpose, to allow smoother wheel travel w/ less stress on the upper arm/joint.

[Nuvayma]

Good write up. I just got done installing my camburg co's this thread really helped out alot.

[KingoftheCarnivalCreation]

Originally Posted by TacoGunner

Without the UCA Uniball's and a lifted front I've heard of guys wearing out their upper ball joints. A lifted front forces the stock upper ball joint to operate out of its normal range. I put the new UCA's in mainly for that purpose, to allow smoother wheel travel w/ less stress on the upper arm/joint.

very true. i blew both joints twice before i sucked it up and got the TC uniballs. thinking about just going the long mile and LTing it. but i hate the skid plate look. havent seen any good ones i like.