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#1 |
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Veteran Member
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Is there anything special I need to know about welding on an axle housing? I know you can warp them, but I figured there may be some specific things I need to watch out for. Advice?
Thanks in advance.
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#2 |
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H-O-L-Y-------S-H-I-T-H-H-A-A
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 9,780
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You got most of it figured out by knowing it is possible to warp them, but the only other thing I can think of is to make sure you clean/grind the area really well. Nothing like grease and road grime to contaminate a good weld!
I would say just follow your "basics" and you should be good to go, are you welding toward the diff or toward the outer part of the axle? The reason for question is, because some of the areas, can get pretty tight to get a nozzle into.
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BEAR Originally Posted by abbott … remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
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#3 |
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www.shutupandwheel.com
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Daniel... Work a little area at a time. Allow to cool and move to the other side.
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Kyle Never Ending V8 Powered Truggy build up 03 Tundra - Stock 06 Gixxer 750 - Not stock |
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#4 |
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Veteran Member
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I'm helping my brother with a SPOA on his samurai, so it's near the knuckles.
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#5 | |
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Veteran Member
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Quote:
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#6 | |
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wut?
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Are you welding on new perches? You would have to work hard to mess up the axle welding on perches. Just make sure you get them at the right angle. If you weld on a truss, you really have to be careful, you can really cause some warpage. |
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#7 |
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Veteran Member
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Yeah, perches. The kit he got uses a design that pretty much aligns itself using the stock bottom perches. I did notice that the first rear perch I welded on was slightly out of line. Basically if you were looking down at it, it is rotated very slightly in a counterclockwise direction. The top of the plate is parrallel with the others, so I figured that wouldn't be a big issue, as long as it's not bad enough to keep the new ubolts from bolting on. I guess I can straighten it up if I need to, though.
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#8 |
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The Satanic Panic
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also be careful u dont weld any bearings in the diff, put the work clamp where the current wont travel thru there
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i have too many damn car projects 99 x cab SOLD 02 trans am ws6 1953 bel air rat rod 1950 chevy 3800 |
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#9 | |
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Veteran Member
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Quote:
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#10 | |
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Tacoma-dana 44
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Jose
Posts: 383
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Quote:
I don't know if that's an issue or not, I won't argue it. But, keeping the clamp close to the work can help protect the CPU. I think someone on the board damaged their CPU welding. |
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#11 |
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The Satanic Panic
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i other words, the arc can travel thru ur bearings if its grounded in the wrong spot, like welding on the axle housing and puttin the clamp on the driveshaft
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i have too many damn car projects 99 x cab SOLD 02 trans am ws6 1953 bel air rat rod 1950 chevy 3800 |
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#12 |
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BMFWIC
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: King George, VA
Posts: 942
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be sure to pull the seals sout or they will melt, like the other said, a little at a time will get the job done no problem
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(Flexion), 99tacx, BadBradHaz, DentedTacoma, hawaiianbro, jwbehm, rdtf, vanguard all love the cawk...I have proof. myspace |
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#13 |
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Veteran Member
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Well, no worries about that. The sami is on stands and the axles are laying on the other side of the garage. I would have never thought to take the axle seals out, but if they got messed up it's no biggy. I'm sure they're only a few bucks to replace.
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#14 |
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Veteran Member
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Unhook the batetry before begining your welds. Like someone said, the current can mess with electrical stuff mainly CPUs if not unhooked
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1998 Tacoma X-tra Cab SR-5 TRD 3.4 V-6/5 spd S/C
285/75-16 Dueler M/T on TRD Ivans 2" RB BL w/ Gap Guards, Deaver 3-leaf, Bilstein 7100 SB's, Custom Bilstein 6100 Coilovers w/ Eibach Coils, AP UCA's, Poly Rack Bushings, Deck Plate, TRD Filter, LCE Rotors Hawk Pads, Optima Red Top, 04 Flares/Tail lights, Leer Shell, Pioneer CD Player, T4R Seats, Tweeter Housings and leather Steering Wheel, Custom Tube Bumper, Hella 500's, PIAA 004XT, |
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