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Old 01-16-2006, 08:19 AM   #1
tenntaco
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Default Welding on Axle Tubes

Is there anything special I need to know about welding on an axle housing? I know you can warp them, but I figured there may be some specific things I need to watch out for. Advice?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:36 AM   #2
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You got most of it figured out by knowing it is possible to warp them, but the only other thing I can think of is to make sure you clean/grind the area really well. Nothing like grease and road grime to contaminate a good weld!

I would say just follow your "basics" and you should be good to go, are you welding toward the diff or toward the outer part of the axle? The reason for question is, because some of the areas, can get pretty tight to get a nozzle into.
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:42 AM   #3
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Daniel... Work a little area at a time. Allow to cool and move to the other side.
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:33 AM   #4
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I'm helping my brother with a SPOA on his samurai, so it's near the knuckles.
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLRoach
Daniel... Work a little area at a time. Allow to cool and move to the other side.
That's basically what I've been doing. I need to go back over there tomorrow night to finish the front and get the axles back underneath. Yesterday I ran out of wire.
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenntaco
I'm helping my brother with a SPOA on his samurai, so it's near the knuckles.

Are you welding on new perches? You would have to work hard to mess up the axle welding on perches. Just make sure you get them at the right angle. If you weld on a truss, you really have to be careful, you can really cause some warpage.
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Old 01-16-2006, 12:17 PM   #7
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Yeah, perches. The kit he got uses a design that pretty much aligns itself using the stock bottom perches. I did notice that the first rear perch I welded on was slightly out of line. Basically if you were looking down at it, it is rotated very slightly in a counterclockwise direction. The top of the plate is parrallel with the others, so I figured that wouldn't be a big issue, as long as it's not bad enough to keep the new ubolts from bolting on. I guess I can straighten it up if I need to, though.
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Old 01-16-2006, 05:06 PM   #8
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also be careful u dont weld any bearings in the diff, put the work clamp where the current wont travel thru there
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Old 01-16-2006, 06:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanKoma
also be careful u dont weld any bearings in the diff, put the work clamp where the current wont travel thru there
Can you elaborate on that?
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Old 01-16-2006, 06:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenntaco
Can you elaborate on that?
He is conserned that if electrical current from welding travels through any bearings they might melt form the heat.

I don't know if that's an issue or not, I won't argue it. But, keeping the clamp close to the work can help protect the CPU. I think someone on the board damaged their CPU welding.
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:21 PM   #11
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i other words, the arc can travel thru ur bearings if its grounded in the wrong spot, like welding on the axle housing and puttin the clamp on the driveshaft
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Old 01-17-2006, 08:08 AM   #12
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be sure to pull the seals sout or they will melt, like the other said, a little at a time will get the job done no problem
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:56 AM   #13
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Well, no worries about that. The sami is on stands and the axles are laying on the other side of the garage. I would have never thought to take the axle seals out, but if they got messed up it's no biggy. I'm sure they're only a few bucks to replace.
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Old 01-20-2006, 12:23 AM   #14
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Unhook the batetry before begining your welds. Like someone said, the current can mess with electrical stuff mainly CPUs if not unhooked
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