Rebuild Alternator

[Brender:)]

so I did the search on rebuilding my alternator and surprisingly it seems pretty straight forward. I talked to my Dad who happens to be a retired diesel mechanic and he told me not to waste my time trying to rebuild an alternator myself but just to buy a rebuilt one and if I wanted to wrench I could replace it myself using his tools. How much money would I save if I were to rebuild it myself (and gain some knowledge) versus buying a rebuilt one and replacing myself? Is it worth it?

[Timbuddha]

It's not worth it. I have done mine and it just wasn't worth it. You could try to find an alternator re-builder in your area and have them rebuild it. I did that to mine when I soaked it with mud. $60 later it was as good as new. In fact, I've had that one on my truck for 35,000 miles with no problems. It is stilling in my garage if you are interested in purchasing it. I can get you some pics if you would like.

Tim

[Brender:)]

you are right, my Dad has a friend at Napa and has it on hold for $160. all I need to do is remove mine and take it up to Hangtown (49 miles)

[John Luttrell]

Alternator rebuilt is simple stuff depending on your experiance; rebuilt mine 30k miles ago for 35 bucks worth of parts from Toyota and 40 minutes of work. Thats about 400 bucks cheaper than a new one from Toyota.

[Ted]

Originally Posted by Brender:)

so I did the search on rebuilding my alternator and surprisingly it seems pretty straight forward. I talked to my Dad who happens to be a retired diesel mechanic and he told me not to waste my time trying to rebuild an alternator myself but just to buy a rebuilt one and if I wanted to wrench I could replace it myself using his tools. How much money would I save if I were to rebuild it myself (and gain some knowledge) versus buying a rebuilt one and replacing myself? Is it worth it?

What is wrong with your alternator?

[trdtrlsntrq]

Originally Posted by John Luttrell

Alternator rebuilt is simple stuff depending on your experiance; rebuilt mine 30k miles ago for 35 bucks worth of parts from Toyota and 40 minutes of work. Thats about 400 bucks cheaper than a new one from Toyota.

If you don't mind me asking, does more wraps of copper equal more amperage?
Also, if the above were true, how do you measure? Do you have a formula? Such as, a specific amperage given to an alternator, equals, a certain length of copper wire? Or whatever the fuck.............
If there's no easy answer, no biggie, just curious?

[Brender:)]

Originally Posted by Ted

What is wrong with your alternator?

Hey Ted! how's it going?,I'm gonna go to Radio Shack tonight and picking up a voltmeter

[John Luttrell]

What usually goes bad on these units are the brushes; a very cheap and simple long term fix is to replace the brushes. The copper windings in one never goes bad unless you had a severe melt down and in that case I'd replace the whole unit. I have seen a bad diode in one from a dummie and a set of jumper cables. The service manual gives all the info to test the diode and brush specs.

[Dick Foster]

Yes, all you need to do is replace the brushes. It takes about 10 min not counting the R&R and is much cheaper than swapping for a rebuilt with a dubious past. Remember that the so called mechanics these days are nothing more than parts swappers and do not have the status of your wallet in mind. Yeah you can tell your dad I said that. Ask him where the fuck that parts counter is gonna be when your shit is broke down 50 miles out into middle of no where. Even if you could make the call, not likely, AAA ain't about to make that trip. LOL

[Dick Foster]

Get some spare fuses for it when you do. Folks including myself , always forget and try to take a voltage reading with the meter set to measure amps and blow the fuse.

[ShowStop]

Unless the voltage regulator and/or the diodes went bad, it is cheaper to pull the alternator and fix it. Like The Dick said, its usually the brushes that get clogged with mud and stop working. Use the voltmeter to see if you are getting voltage (about 14-15+vdc) on the output post.

[Brender:)]

Here's my plan, (in easy order for me)
1) check battery connections (just replaced battery)
2) check the belts (they are due for replacement)
3) now then, and DON'T laugh when I ask this as I am trying to understand this
Will the load balance indicate whether the brushes need replacement? errrr, how would I determine if the brushes are bad?

[Brender:)]

Originally Posted by Dick Foster

Yes, all you need to do is replace the brushes. It takes about 10 min not counting the R&R and is much cheaper than swapping for a rebuilt with a dubious past. Remember that the so called mechanics these days are nothing more than parts swappers and do not have the status of your wallet in mind. Yeah you can tell your dad I said that. Ask him where the fuck that parts counter is gonna be when your shit is broke down 50 miles out into middle of no where. Even if you could make the call, not likely, AAA ain't about to make that trip. LOL

so Blingy Doo, think I could replace the brushes? tell me what parts to buy

[Dick Foster]

When the bruches wear out the alternator quits putting out and your battery looses it's charge then the truck will not run. Check the battery voltage with the truck not running you should read something like 12VDC, then start the truck and check the voltage again it should be higher with the truck running something over 13V. If this is not so then the alternator is not charging the battery and the most likely cause of that is simply bad or worn out brushes.

You do understand the concept of not putting out don't you? LOL
Sorry it was just there so I had to use it.

[Dick Foster]

That's simple, the brushes. Almost any place can fix you up, just take the Denso Part number off of the alternator with you when you go in. Maybe eveh your friendly stealership will have them.

[Wgasa84]

Originally Posted by Dick Foster

That's simple, the brushes. Almost any place can fix you up, just take the Denso Part number off of the alternator with you when you go in. Maybe eveh your friendly stealership will have them.

when we replaced the brushes on Bling Taco's truck, it came out to something like $5 for new brushes, from Car Quest.

The hardest thing was getting the alt back in. Which was pretty easy.

[Brender:)]

Originally Posted by Wgasa84

when we replaced the brushes on Bling Taco's truck, it came out to something like $5 for new brushes, from Car Quest.

The hardest thing was getting the alt back in. Which was pretty easy.

okay then, I have chosen to accept this mission, I'll keep you posted!

[tacotoy]

Originally Posted by Dick Foster

When the bruches wear out the alternator quits putting out and your battery looses it's charge then the truck will not run. Check the battery voltage with the truck not running you should read something like 12VDC, then start the truck and check the voltage again it should be higher with the truck running something over 13V. If this is not so then the alternator is not charging the battery and the most likely cause of that is simply bad or worn out brushes.

You do understand the concept of not putting out don't you? LOL
Sorry it was just there so I had to use it.

we were talking about you and your alternator a few days ago dick. did you get yours rewound? any idea what your output is now? im trying to decide on what i want to do with mine. i have dual batteries but i want to have the larger alt too

[Dick Foster]

After screwing around with the whole deal of getting half assed rewinds done locally etc. I finally found this place in Auburn, CA that redid a stocker to put out at least 105 amps that I actually measured in my truck while also keeping the voltage up at normal loads at idle into the bargain. Most regular delta winds usually won't put out anyting at idle RPMs and your truck runs off of the battery so your heallights dim way down and shit like that. They also put in beefier diodes to go with the extra juice cranked out by the new Y winding.

The place is Boyle Future Technology and their phone is 530-888-6290. Good folks, good price, good service and I'm a happy customer.

Parts Mike put me on to them. Sometimes I think Mike knows about all the good shit to be had out there and I should just start projects out by calling him first. LOL

[Brender:)]

so I buy a voltmeter and test the battery, the battery is good, then I jump it and test the alternator and it reads 14v(normal) I drive it around the block, let the engine run for like 10 minutes and turn it off. I go back in 30 minutes and the battery is now reading 12v and not enough to crank the motor but enough to run the radio/lights. Could this be a short?

[Brender:)]

so i go to jump the truck again and i'm messing around with the battery connections and the key is NOT in the ignition and I see the front drive blinker come on? wtf???

[Brender:)]

okay, i've spent an hour and determined this:
it's ELECTRICAL I disconnected the positive cables on the battery and there was spark...I thought it might be this f"ed up cb radio which I promptly pulled out, so again I'm messing with the terminals and the driver front blinker comes on? no key in the ignition, i'm still getting spark so something in my truck is draining my battry.

[Brender:)]

and I have a rapidly spreading w32.sober threat on my computer which after an hour on Symantec and three fucking downloads of removal tools,can't be removed, I work with a total bitch that i hate her guts and is pretty much the sole reason why MEN hate women and then to top off all this shit I get a fuckin credit card from...guess where? yup, fucking Target. I think I'll drink.

[Lysmachia]

Yeah Brender! Sounds like you had a good day :-)

I rolled my truck. Does that make you feel any better? LOL Ok but when running Pritchett yesterday I had my rock lights on, running my winch... yada yada. I knew I was taxing the battery and alternator. I was lucky. My truck quit in the middle of a nasty obstacle before Rock pile (And I went rolling down backwards at 40 MPH - no power breaks - thinking I was going to roll again).

Moral of the story. As Bling Taco says "If it will stop you, carry it!" (And Luck would have it - we have stolen Bling from Norcal back to Colorado). And if my alternator was totally dead I would have been screwed. I will be working on doing something similar as TacoToy

Hope you find the electrical issue!!

[Brender:)]

Originally Posted by Lysmachia

Yeah Brender! Sounds like you had a good day :-)

I rolled my truck. Does that make you feel any better? LOL Ok but when running Pritchett yesterday I had my rock lights on, running my winch... yada yada. I knew I was taxing the battery and alternator. I was lucky. My truck quit in the middle of a nasty obstacle before Rock pile (And I went rolling down backwards at 40 MPH - no power breaks - thinking I was going to roll again).

Moral of the story. As Bling Taco says "If it will stop you, carry it!" (And Luck would have it - we have stolen Bling from Norcal back to Colorado). And if my alternator was totally dead I would have been screwed. I will be working on doing something similar as TacoToy

Hope you find the electrical issue!!

what kind of shape is your rig in now?
I'm sorry, i got a few things going on with mine, some are easy to fix, some are difficult, some are expensive and some are cheap

[Dick Foster]

What does the battery voltage read while it's cranking. If low voltage it's the battery just get a new one. Most wet cells types last 3 to 5 years tops then loose capacity because the plates become coated with sulfides. If the voltage reads good under a heavy load, check all the connections and cables to the starter are clean and tight. If that is all good then the starter solenoid contacts are probably shot.

[Dick Foster]

There is normally a small load on the battery even when the ingnition is off and the engine is not running. It form the ECU, Clock, Radio etc. but it's a very small drain. However your blinkers should not be running with the ignition off so maybe you have a bad flasher relay or something. It's in the fuse block under the dash on the drivers side. Just reconnect the battery and pull the approriate fuses to isolate the fault to one circuit then go from there.

[Brender:)]

Originally Posted by Dick Foster

There is normally a small load on the battery even when the ingnition is off and the engine is not running. It form the ECU, Clock, Radio etc. but it's a very small drain. However your blinkers should not be running with the ignition off so maybe you have a bad flasher relay or something. It's in the fuse block under the dash on the drivers side. Just reconnect the battery and pull the approriate fuses to isolate the fault to one circuit then go from there.

I totally appreciate your help on this Dick. So we can eliminate the battery and the alternator. I'm gonna put the battery back in the truck tonight and double check the connectors as they were slightly loose. Now then, If it doesn't start there's no sense and jumping the damn thing cause the battry is simply not holding a charge cause something is draining it, am I not giving it enough time to charge (15 min) the battry fully? I'll post up tomorrow and let you know. Thanks!

[Brender:)]

Originally Posted by Dick Foster

There is normally a small load on the battery even when the ingnition is off and the engine is not running. It form the ECU, Clock, Radio etc. but it's a very small drain. However your blinkers should not be running with the ignition off so maybe you have a bad flasher relay or something. It's in the fuse block under the dash on the drivers side. Just reconnect the battery and pull the approriate fuses to isolate the fault to one circuit then go from there.

don't suppose you know off hand what type of fuses it takes?

[AngryAndy]

Originally Posted by Brender:)

I totally appreciate your help on this Dick. So we can eliminate the battery and the alternator. I'm gonna put the battery back in the truck tonight and double check the connectors as they were slightly loose. Now then, If it doesn't start there's no sense and jumping the damn thing cause the battry is simply not holding a charge cause something is draining it, am I not giving it enough time to charge (15 min) the battry fully? I'll post up tomorrow and let you know. Thanks!

What makes you think its NOT your battery???

If your truck runs fine when jumped, and you said you got 14 volts at idle...I am assuming your charging system is working. It is possible a dead cell in the battery is not allowing the battery to charge, therefore it will be dead as soon as you turn off your truck....just because you have a small spark when reattaching the battery; does not mean there is a short...like Dick said, the clock, radio, computer all use battery power with the key off.

I would have that battery tested at pep-boys/autozone and see if its 'up to par'....they will test it under load, verifiying it will put out as many cca's as the battery is rated for. If you could get your truck there; they could also test your charging system and starter....I had my 4runner tested just last week.

I find it quite impossible for your truck to have such a heavy draw (with key off) as to not let you start it once you jumped it....assuming you took it for a short drive around the block once or twice....did you do that??

Good luck with it..........my bet is a battery or loose battery terminals...I doubt the terminals....cause you already jumped it. if the terminals were THAT bad, it would have never taken a jump start......