What Jig saw and/or sawzall/grinder you guys use?

[jentzschman]

What type of jig saw and/or sawzall do you guys use for your metal work?

What amperage do you recommend? I would be doing metal work on at least .120 wall steel, +/-

I want to make sure to get a good one that can take it.

Home depot has a 11 amp for 119, a 15amp reconditioned for 169 (online only) and a 13 amp for 189 (online only)

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10053





I have also heard that a 7" angle grinder works ok as well....

Was looking at this 7" angle grinder:

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053


or this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053

[Pikeman]

I used a 4 in deWalt grinder, a dewalt sawzall and a Rigid 18v cordless sawzall. the key is good quality blades and grinding wheels. buy plenty of blades and when they start to get dull change it. I also used an airpower DA sander and air cut off wheel.

[Mez]

I never use a jig saw for metal work, I keep the jig for the wood working. I've had the same Rigid recip. saw for about 5 years, it's had plenty of use, I show it no mercy, and it never shows struggle. As far as the grinders, I love the 4.5" makita, but if you've got the urge to splurge, and have ear protection, the 7" grinder makes any grinding job alot easier as long as there's no tight spots. I think 9" would be overkill on anything we're working on, on a daily basis.

[KYN8]

I bought the harbor freight garbage - and I do mean GARBAGE - and as each piece breaks I am replacing it with a quality investment. I bought a Milwaukee sawsaw after the HF one broke after my first project! The HF drill/hammer drill lasted a little longer, maybe 2 years of very little use. My 21 gal HF compressor actually made it over 3 years and did ok. The one piece I have been happy with from HF has been their 4" angle grinder; I am sure there are people on here that ahve had bad experiences with them, but I've had mine for over 3 years and have usied it a ton and it's still working great!
If you go cordless definitely get the 18v, it's worth the extra $!

[devinsixtyseven]

Buying tools is simple. Don't buy MIC, do buy high amp, high cap, and small package.

Look on the piece for a line that reads "Made in China". If you find that, put it back, and mention to an employee that you're looking for a high quality hand tool, and the Chinese stuff doesn't cut it, regardless of the brand name. Word eventually gets around.

You'll be unpleasantly surprised if you buy light duty tools assuming you'll only work with 1/8". You'll also be in a bind if you buy really big tools...they're rarely convenient to use "in place"...ie on the truck...particularly a 7" angle grinder when you're working underneath the truck to remove a rivet head. No fucking way would I do that.

My favorite tools, in no particular order...I didn't get these all at once, more like over the better part of a decade, starting with the smaller, more affordable stuff:

Millermatic Passport (120/240 portable welder, 100% CO2, internal or external gas supply, good for mild or stainless, and runs flux, M-10 gun is conveniently small, arc is incredibly stable)

Carolina Industrial Equipment horizontal bandsaw (3/4" carbide blade, can operate in vertical mode, motor and gearbox Made in USA, company still in business, still makes a similar saw and supports this one. Got it used off Craigslist)

Milwaukee "Super Sawzall" (orbital, 15A?, rotating head, coarse and fine speed adjustment...got at HD with a price match deal against Lowe's. Not often used, but when you need it, there's probably nothing else that'll work. Not precise, very violent, easy to fuck up a cut in a hurry...takes practice to use well)

DeWalt corded drill (I forget the model #...but it's huge, 1/2" chuck, 13A?, D-handle, variable speed with max 800rpm...hold it like a rifle, with the D-handle in your shoulder, one hand on the pistol grip, other on the side handle, and pull the trigger...I use this with the big sheetmetal cutters, step bits, and most bits over 1/4" when I can get the drill in place)

Milwaukee 4.5" angle grinder (high amp, very high quality, does not bog down like my old 4.5" DeWalt, and it's incredibly quiet for an angle grinder. The DeWalt screams in comparison. I can run the Milwaukee at 9pm in the garage of my townhouse without worrying about the neighbors. Gotta have a small angle grinder, to clean up after the sawzall)

DeWalt 90* drill (getting along without it was a pain in the ass. Finally broke down and bought one. Good for working in place on the truck.)

Big-assed vise (get a nice one off Ebay or Craigslist...something huge and heavy...and bolt it to something even heavier. A big corded drill will spin things around awful quick, and the Sawzall shakes the shit out of everything)

JMR bender (gearbox driven, all it takes is a ratchet wrench, and it will run ProTools dies)

Bottle of cutting fluid, some bits and cutting wheels, couple heavy duty 3-outlet extension cords running to a dedicated 20A socket, handful of flap wheels, and you're good to go. I really like the Tiger flap wheels...any welding store should sell them. 40 grit will remove metal in a hurry, and 120 is great for polishing mill scale off tube prior to welding, without removing too much of the OD.

While you're in a buying mood, get a set of earmuffs, a North respirator with low-profile dust cartridges, a Uvex impact-resistant Bionic face shield, and a pack of leather gloves from your local welding shop (they are much better quality, and less expensive, than the crap at Lowe's & HD).

Over the last year, I've really used the shit out of my hand tools. There are a few things I would not particularly recommend. Avoid cheap angle grinders, if you intend heavy use...wire cups and wheels in particular are very abusive. Unfortunately, my DW 4.5" sounds like a freight train now, and I would not call it cheap. It lasted four years of very light use, a year of moderate use, and a year of heavy use. Second tool I ever bought. The paddle control is far better IMHO than the slider, and I favor the DW switch over the Milwaukee switch. I'm curious how long a cheap HF grinder would last, with a twisted wire cup mounted.

Similarly, avoid cheap hand drills...when you're drilling through metal, you need low rpm, high torque, and pressure on the bit, even for small diameter holes, which means a heavy load on batteries, and near-constant use of the variable speed control. A good drill will have metal gears and a replaceable speed control. My DeWalt 18v has lasted seven or eight years, first hand tool I ever bought, the original batteries are toast and I'm on a second set, and the speed control finally bit the dust a couple weeks ago...now it has two speeds, on and off, until I can get downtown for a new part. Fortunately, it can take a new part. Not all drills can.

-Sean

[jentzschman]

Wow... what nice.

I did buy a cheap 4.5" angle grinder at first.. but needed it.. its a black and decker....So far it has held up nicely for what I have used it for.

I have a craftsman drill... big but its strong

It looks looks like I will be getting a good 7" grinder and a good sawzall then.

Probably the grinder fist as a friend has a sawzall to use when needed...

[docjake]

You do have to consider the kick back on bigger angle grinders, I have had the bigger ones leave their mark more then once.

[devinsixtyseven]

Originally Posted by jentzschman

It looks looks like I will be getting a good 7" grinder

I would not recommend that at all...in fact I would recommend against it. Get a quality (not MIC) 4.5" grinder, if you really need/want another. It is incredibly versatile. The big one is more for wholesale removal of material...not as easy to control, nor as easy to position, as the 4.5"...I've used the 4.5" DW with a zip wheel to notch tube, cut stock in half the long way (and the short way), slotted plate to be welded against tube, as well as minor shaping and trimming with zip wheels, grinding and flap wheels.

I would do none of the above with a 7" grinder...even if I could fit it in place, if it got away from me during one of the above operations, I'd be in the ER.

A 7" grinder would be useful for cleaning material, including the welding station, and for cleaning up the remains of welded assemblies that were rough-cut apart. You can do both with a 4.5", but it will take longer.

Save your money for now.

Or, since your buddy has a sawzall and you have a 4.5" grinder...trying to think what else was handy, since you can cut and prep most projects with those two tools. That's all I had for a long time, it's slow but it gets the job done.

Other stuff you'll eventually need if you don't already have it, & worth spending on vs that 7" grinder...

-Clamps...C-clamps, Vise Grip clamps, can never have enough.
-Drill Doctor
-Calipers
-Metric and SAE taps (3/8, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, various pitches)
-Sheetmetal cutters (Jancy Sluggers, don't bother w/hole saws)
-Set of flap wheels, set of twisted wire cups, fiber wheels and cups

Hope that helps. There is an awful lot more worthwhile to buy than a 7" grinder.

-Sean

[trailblazer223]

milwaukee porta band. a little more expensive but its worth it. as for hf tools, you get what you pay for. dont get me wrong, ive had harbor freight power tools last ahwile. but it seems like they work good until you need them the most. and even if you do get the warranty, you still have to stop working go up get another. it gets to be a pain

[devinsixtyseven]

Originally Posted by trailblazer223

milwaukee porta band.

Craiglist is a great place to pick these up! Seen 'em go real cheap. Check out "the ugly one" bumper build, from the guy whose username is something like 4303...it's in this folder. He's using something very similar...small portable bandsaw, mounted on a stand. Seeing what he is able to do with that little bandsaw was the final push for me to get one, and I sorta stumbled on the Carolina Industrial saw when I was on CL looking at Portabands.

[WallyP226]

I have a Black & Decker jig saw, it took me a little bit to figure out how to work it and not bust it. After trashing one, the second has lasted years.

Essentially, let it cut with light pressure, no need push hard it just tears the gears out of it. Its slow, but steady. I cut a couple of feet of mild 1/4" with a jig saw a couple of weeks ago while working on fishplating project.

Wally

[miguelitro]

I also use a jigsaw(a very old Craftsman) to cut out plate and for cutting AL as you cant use cutoff wheels. It is very nice for scrolled cuts.

[algranger]

Sawzall is a Rigid. I'm not a huge fan of it. I wish i got the Milwaukee

Jigsaw is a Bosh its pretty nice but the only time it sees metal is on bed bobs, its not ideal for heavier metals

Have you considered a Port-a-Band?

[badbronco]

metabo 6" grinder, porter cable sawz-all

[JDM PUNK]

Deff. gonna have to say a 4" Metabo,...There made in Germany, and they are damn good, we have tried all kinds of grinders and these put them all to shame as far as how long they last,..we use them every single day at work because we grind down most of our welds, there good grinders we have 2 4" and one 6"

[slow_key]

I have a Milwaukee Sawsall, do your homework there are like 3 or 4 different models (corded) 3/4 stroke all the way to 1.25" (1 1/4) I bought the longest I could find.
I also have 2 Dewalt 4 1/2 grinders combo of cutting disc or grinder or wire brush. there are several models, again there are bigger and smaller, motor size, bigger=heavier
I have a cheap hand me down drill press and the last but best is a Lincoln MIG 110 w/gas kit

[mattsonmj]

On the cheap end of the scale I've had a Makita sawzall that's held up well for about 10 years. Probably paid $40 for it and have had no problems cutting just about anything: steel, pipe, 2x4s, 4x4s, tree limbs, and even cracked a safe one time (legally at work).